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Clutch Problem

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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 05:18 AM
  #11  
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Jackie Paper
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From: Honah Lee
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You need a service manual for you bike or someone to type the exact procedure for adjusting you clutch before condemning it. Not sure why but the back off on the clutch drum under the derby cover is a lot less then my Softail and getting it correct is important. You sure fluid level is correct? See people fill it up to fill plug and not level mark. You can get two times the correct amount in there and if so the clutch will drag really bad
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 06:41 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
You need a service manual for you bike or someone to type the exact procedure for adjusting you clutch before condemning it. Not sure why but the back off on the clutch drum under the derby cover is a lot less then my Softail and getting it correct is important. You sure fluid level is correct? See people fill it up to fill plug and not level mark. You can get two times the correct amount in there and if so the clutch will drag really bad
If you're seeing brass rivets in the primary, the time for adjustment has passed. You need to replace the clutch and you need to consider a service manual part of the upgrade cost. That being said, if you've got cash for the clutch and lack cash for the manual, and it's your primary transportation, you've got little choice but to give it a shot. I have the 2009 model manual and will help in any way I can, PM me when the time comes.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 07:35 AM
  #13  
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From: palm bay
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Thanks again, I do have the manuel, and i'll take you up on your offer to pm you.

I'll keep you updated,

Ride safe
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by notofthisworld
Thanks again John,

My bike is a 2008 1200 custom. I bought it used in 2010 it had 8,000 miles on it. By the end of 2011 i had 33,000 miles on it so within a year i've put 25,000 miles. I bought the bike because I lost my Job and need to get better gas millage. I only paid 4500. for the bike so I've got my moneys worth out of it. I'm strapped for money that is why I want to do this myself. I'm good at fixing things, But a bike is new to me.
I think you can buy an Energy One clutch pack with clutch spring compressing tool for less than $200. I think that's all you need except for Allen and Torx wrenches. Once the primary cover is off, I think the compressor is all you need, maybe some snap ring pliers.

So, it's not major surgery, just check the clutch hub for any additional damage done by the rivets, they're soft metal, so hopefully an easy fix.

30,000 seems to be common mileage for those to go out.

John
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 09:26 AM
  #15  
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33,000 miles and rivets in the fluid. YEP, time for a new clutch! This thread also might help:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...tch-alert.html
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 07:25 PM
  #16  
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From: palm bay
Default Clutch Slippage and Draging

Guy's

Obviously I'm new, but Could someone explain to me the meaning of when the clutch slips and when it drags. I'm not sure of the terminology.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:47 AM
  #17  
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From: Kafar Hanusi
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Originally Posted by notofthisworld
I forgot to mention that I've adjusted the cable 3 times and it seems to work for a day or two, then the problem reaqures. I've put new primary fluied in it also.
Bingo, spring plate, get the SE clutch pack or aftermarket without the spring plate.
 
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