1200 conversion ?
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 431
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis, MO
You can change the cams later but you'll have to tune the bike twice. What year is the bike? Carb or EFI? Also, your 883 heads will work fine but I'd consider, at minimum, a competition valve job from NRHS or Hammer Performance. If I remember correctly, a competition valve job is recommended, as a minimum, on 883 heads if changing cams. 883 heads are rather inefficient without the valve job. Here's an excellent write-up from Hammer Performance on 883 conversions: http://hammerperf.com/883conversions.shtml.
-Beer
EDIT: Guess you have a 92 Sporty. I missed that the first time.
-Beer
EDIT: Guess you have a 92 Sporty. I missed that the first time.
Last edited by iwantmybeerbackplease; Jan 1, 2013 at 08:36 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
If you go to the NRHS website they have a graph showing engine performance comparing stock 883 engine, with 1250 kit plus stock heads and various stages of head porting. The noteworthy thing is that performance of all 1250s is very similar in the rev range most of us will ride. I am sure most of us will be thrilled by a 1250 kit and stock 883 heads with stock cams. Further changes improve performance mostly in the upper rev range.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 12,986
Likes: 715
From: NE Philly
If you go to the NRHS website they have a graph showing engine performance comparing stock 883 engine, with 1250 kit plus stock heads and various stages of head porting. The noteworthy thing is that performance of all 1250s is very similar in the rev range most of us will ride. I am sure most of us will be thrilled by a 1250 kit and stock 883 heads with stock cams. Further changes improve performance mostly in the upper rev range.
Even with a 100+ HP Sporty vs a simple 70 HP conversion, most of the extra power comes above 4500 RPM. Most riders will shift at or before then.
Unless you'll be dragging the bike or want to post great dyno numbers, you probably won't need the extra ponies. Also remember, the more power you add, the more expensive it gets and you sacrifice some reliability.
If you're going to have cams and head work done, it should be done while you do the conversion. 100 HP seems like a great idea when you're already doing the conversion to begin with. Just realize that it won't be cheap and it won't run as reliably.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,782
Likes: 1,202
From: river
+1
Even with a 100+ HP Sporty vs a simple 70 HP conversion, most of the extra power comes above 4500 RPM. Most riders will shift at or before then.
Unless you'll be dragging the bike or want to post great dyno numbers, you probably won't need the extra ponies. Also remember, the more power you add, the more expensive it gets and you sacrifice some reliability.
If you're going to have cams and head work done, it should be done while you do the conversion. 100 HP seems like a great idea when you're already doing the conversion to begin with. Just realize that it won't be cheap and it won't run as reliably.
Even with a 100+ HP Sporty vs a simple 70 HP conversion, most of the extra power comes above 4500 RPM. Most riders will shift at or before then.
Unless you'll be dragging the bike or want to post great dyno numbers, you probably won't need the extra ponies. Also remember, the more power you add, the more expensive it gets and you sacrifice some reliability.
If you're going to have cams and head work done, it should be done while you do the conversion. 100 HP seems like a great idea when you're already doing the conversion to begin with. Just realize that it won't be cheap and it won't run as reliably.
I agree to disagree
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,782
Likes: 1,202
From: river
+1
Even with a 100+ HP Sporty vs a simple 70 HP conversion, most of the extra power comes above 4500 RPM. Most riders will shift at or before then.
Unless you'll be dragging the bike or want to post great dyno numbers, you probably won't need the extra ponies. Also remember, the more power you add, the more expensive it gets and you sacrifice some reliability.
If you're going to have cams and head work done, it should be done while you do the conversion. 100 HP seems like a great idea when you're already doing the conversion to begin with. Just realize that it won't be cheap and it won't run as reliably.
Even with a 100+ HP Sporty vs a simple 70 HP conversion, most of the extra power comes above 4500 RPM. Most riders will shift at or before then.
Unless you'll be dragging the bike or want to post great dyno numbers, you probably won't need the extra ponies. Also remember, the more power you add, the more expensive it gets and you sacrifice some reliability.
If you're going to have cams and head work done, it should be done while you do the conversion. 100 HP seems like a great idea when you're already doing the conversion to begin with. Just realize that it won't be cheap and it won't run as reliably.
Or unless you want a killer engine with tons of power that's reliable. Nobody needs the extra ponies, if that was the case they would all be 883s
There can be a lot more power made at 3 grand, not 4500. Why do all you guys think these sportys with some port work cams are so unreliable. Please don't fear the unknown of a beefed up 1200
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,782
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From: river
No you don't have to change the cam. If you want performance. The more you do at once the better. Simply because the engine is apart. Good luck
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,782
Likes: 1,202
From: river
If you go to the NRHS website they have a graph showing engine performance comparing stock 883 engine, with 1250 kit plus stock heads and various stages of head porting. The noteworthy thing is that performance of all 1250s is very similar in the rev range most of us will ride. I am sure most of us will be thrilled by a 1250 kit and stock 883 heads with stock cams. Further changes improve performance mostly in the upper rev range.