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So my sportster was slowly leaking oil from the gasket between the cylinder and the bottom end. So i broke her down replaced all the gaskets in that one cylinder and put it back together. Bitch still leaking oil in the same spot and faster now...
Does the new gasket need a few start ups to seal all the way? should i let her get to temp then cool down? im pissed
Ill post a pic on my lunch break. It is a 2000 883Custom with the 1200 jugs.
One more question. When putting the cylinder back on, (the piston was a little bi*ch) but sliding the cylinder back on the piston moved down some. Would this throw off timing? sounds like she runs a little rough in the front. like knocking a little. at first i was thinking that the oil just had not lubed everything up since it had to be drained.
Some of the issues in replacing the lower cylinder gasket is alignment and torque. There are some very good aftermarket products designed to improve the sealing of that gasket by use of different materials than stock, even specialized alignment designs built in more like a multidimensional gasket.
Another situation I've read about is many will put a slightly higher torque on the bolts and then slightly back off the torque to specs.
There's lots of reading here on the forum about this and all you need to do is use the forum's SEARCH to find days of reading for more insight.
Also are you using dino or synthetic oil? Synthetic has a tendency to find the slightest gaps and leak.
Here is the pic of the leak... Also it only leaked when running.
To the knock issue. it is loud and sounds bad. Like i said before, when reinstalling the cylinder, the piston moved down while pushing down. but i compressed the rings and she slide in. I dont know what else i could have done wrong!
Just read on the current ATF conversation here that an improved factory seal does not require dowel seals and if both are used it will leak.
I didn't address the knock because it's impossible to pinpoint where there could be this issues because so much of the assembly had to come apart to get to the base gaskets. You could have a collapsed lifter, or a dozen other issues in reassembly.
There should be no effect on the timing due to the movement of the piston when replacing the cylinder. However you can mistakenly put the pushrods back in the wrong position, they are not the same lengths.
The rods per put in correctly.. one has three stripes(exhaust) and other has one(intake). i double checked that!!.. oil is from the dealership. and yes i am using a manual. <<< this is what confuses me. it should all be right
Speaking to the different gaskets. for the base gaskets, i used james genuine gasket. it didnt use seperate dowel seals, at least i dont think it did! the gaskets was all one piece. the head gaskets came with two little rubber gaskets along with the main gasket. i put them on according to the package. is that what you are talking about?
No, the gasket does not need a few heat cycles to begin sealing. It seals once installed & tightened properly. That doesn't look like oil to me in your pic....Looks like chocolate milk, unless you add a bunch of water in with your oil when changing it.
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