The SPs are loud enough.

 

Glad everything worked out on the install. I have the same on my '11 Custom. They've mellowed some in the 3 years since, but still sounds great.

 

Good info. I've read a couple of other threads and it seems the process is pretty simple. Except, I'm an accountant and my install is definitely not going so easy.

I purchased a set of Cobra slip ons for my 2011 1200C. Problem is the stock ones aren't slipping off. My plan today is to completely remove the exhaust pipe and apply some PBBlaster to the joint where they slip on. Problem is I don't have a lot of hand strength.

I've tried chiseling them apart and that isn't working. The PB Blaster may help. I was thinking about getting two strap wrenches, placing one on the muffler and one on the pipe and then twist in opposite directions. (I don't have a vice Ora workbench to put one on.)

It's almost like these things are welded on. They aren't but they don't want to separate. Any ideas?

Thanks.

EDIT: Ha! PB Blaster did it. Of course, this was on the rear pipe that I had previously chiseled and opened up the joint on so I am sure that helped a lot. I'll try the front one and should be good. At least I know there is light at the end of the tunnel. Now, I need to find the head clamp nut I dropped I the dark last night when I removed the rear pipe!

 

Since you're an accountant, you may have missed the two bolts on the underside of each muffler holding them to the crossover pipe?

All kidding aside, you risk damaging the engine pipes going at the mufflers with a chisle and that might cause leaking or reassembly issues. If you have access to a propane torch like the type used for sweating copper pipe, you could apply some heat to the slip-ons where they meet the engine pipes, which will cause them to expand slightly [and often breaks any existing bond between the two], which should help ease them off. Having a friend handy would be helpful to hold the engine pipe while you grasp each muffler and twist and pull them apart. Just don't forget to wear leather palm gloves or forget where you just heated, because that will start another thread entitled "I burnt my hands taking off those !#%$ing slip-ons!"

;O)

I suggest loosening the fasteners on the engine pipes slightly to allow each engine pipe some movement and for alignment purposes. Definately purchase new stock crossover gaskets, they're braided and are fairly fragile and inexpensive. Place them on the cross over pipe FIRST, then carefully slip the mufflers over each engine pipe starting with the front muffler. When they're aligned with the bolt holes [front to back alignment] where they attach to the crossover pipe, rotate each muffler towards the gasket and carefully slip them onto the crossover pipe taking care not to mash the gaskets. This is where having a loose engine pipe will help you out - having the ability to pull each muffler towards you will give you the appropriate clearance to rotate each muffler into position between the female cup on the muffler and the male protrusion on the crossover pipe which is holding the crossover gasket in place; they should fall in like butter. Run the muffler attachment bolts through the crossover pipe from underneath to each muffler but don't tighten them yet. Make sure each muffler is aligned properly then slowly start tightening the bolts starting at any engine pipe bolts you may have loosened prior, followed by the muffler to crossover pipe bolts, then any muffler clamps, and lastly the support bracket, rotating between them all, until they're all properly tightened [there are torque specs for each bolt/nut, but I used German Torque when I did mine, known as "Googentight" - and nothing has fallen off or broken yet]. This will help all the different components align themselves properly, and will prevent "loading" fasteners that might cause unecessary stress on them or the exhaust components.

Best wishes!

=8^)

 

Funny guy.

Good advice, I appreciate it. I've got everything disconnected on the rear pipe. PB Blaster did the trick. I'm going to tackle the front pipe now without completely removing the head pipe from the engine. If that doesn't work, it's off to buy a propane torch.

Again, thanks.

 

So, I was able to complete the install and go for a 30 mile test ride! Bike sounds and runs good. No leaks.

He is what I did, just in case someone finds themselves in a similar situation and becomes frustrated removing the muffler from the head pipe.

I disconnected the the O2 sensor and removed the entire assembly (muffler and pipe) from the bike. I then used PB Blaster on the joint and thne placed the muffler in a black&decker workmate and secured it as best I could. Having previously removed the heat shield, I grabbed the header pipe and twisted. Broke free and just wiggled it out.

If you didn't hit the heat shield clamps with PB Blaster previously, spray some on each clamp screw, wipe off the excess and reinstall after you have reattached and tightened everything.

I found the instructions from Cobra much easier than trying to interpret the service manual. Although I recommend having the service manual for tour model on hand.

One final comment-I don't see how you can avoid at least loosening the head pipe clamp from the engine due to the crossover pipe interconnection.

 

Other guys apparently have wrestled the mufflers off without loosening the flange...

On this note, it is important to tighten the pieces in the proper order, which isn't usually in the "instruction page"...

 

The instructions from cobra say to tighten the muffler supports, then the flanges, then the support bolt half way down the rear pipe assembly.

 

I got new black head pipes for under $100. and didn't have to take anything apart. I was going black.