When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey Guys - Just wondering if someone has already gone down this road, and I'm sure you have. I'm about to install new edge cut clutch and brake hand levers on my 2013 FLHTK. The clutch lever is nothing, but when I looked at instructions for the brake lever it referred me to the service manual, and the service manual discusses this as part of a larger effort that involves bleeding the system.
So my question is, if all I am doing is replacing the brake lever, do I have to open up the master cylinder and bleed the system? With ABS this is a pain, and it seems unnecessary if all I am replacing is the lever.
Looks typical of most. Remove the lower small circle clip, pull pin. If yours has the typical brake light switch in the clamshell, you need to slide a strip of card board in behind it so when you reinsert new lever, you do not nip the little rubber bellow on the micro switch. Not sure if ABS has this switch however. Appears to be show and I assume it's typical of both.
Well that's what I thought, but the service manual said to drain the brake lines and then bleed the system, but that didn't sound like it should be necessary unless there was something under pressure that was going to come springing out on me. But looking at the parts blowup it sure didn't look like that was an issue...
Thanks for the input guys. Don't know why the instructions had me going through complete drain master cyl and front brakes just to change the lever. I did it in about 15 minutes last night - shim the lever to save the switch, took the MC assembly off (two torx bolts), took out the pin and replaced the lever, shim again for reassembly, then reinstall MC assembly. Easy stuff.
Appreciate all the responses. Saved me a major PITA draining and bleeding the front brakes..
Thanks for the input guys. Don't know why the instructions had me going through complete drain master cyl and front brakes just to change the lever. I did it in about 15 minutes last night - shim the lever to save the switch, took the MC assembly off (two torx bolts), took out the pin and replaced the lever, shim again for reassembly, then reinstall MC assembly. Easy stuff.
Appreciate all the responses. Saved me a major PITA draining and bleeding the front brakes..
Glad everything worked out for ya man!! Thanks for the compliment too!!
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.