2013 Ultra Classic battery issue .... question
#1
2013 Ultra Classic battery issue .... question
Back in October while on a ride I noticed my voltage warning light had come on. I checked the Volt meter and it was reading under 10 volts. By the time I got home the volt meter was reading reading 0 volts although the bike of course was still running. Hooked up the batter tender jr and was able to get the battery to charge but it wouldn't hold. Originally battery was two years old and I only use a battery tender during winter months when not riding.
Replaced the original battery with a new battery and bike would start and everything appeared fine. I did not put a battery tender on the bike and it has not run since I have changed the battery. Went out to start the bike and the new battery is stone cold dead again. Put a battery tender on it and it won't charge.
I can't understand how a brand new battery would be dead in under 2 months. Is this a voltage regulator or alternator issue? Bike's warranty ends in January so if it' a warranty item I can get it fixed.
Any suggestions to those who are mechanically inclined? Don't want to pay to have it towed to dealer if it's a simple bad battery again. Thanks for the help.
Replaced the original battery with a new battery and bike would start and everything appeared fine. I did not put a battery tender on the bike and it has not run since I have changed the battery. Went out to start the bike and the new battery is stone cold dead again. Put a battery tender on it and it won't charge.
I can't understand how a brand new battery would be dead in under 2 months. Is this a voltage regulator or alternator issue? Bike's warranty ends in January so if it' a warranty item I can get it fixed.
Any suggestions to those who are mechanically inclined? Don't want to pay to have it towed to dealer if it's a simple bad battery again. Thanks for the help.
#2
#3
sounds like your charging system is toast.
( DO NOT jump your bike hoping to "charge the battery" this can burn up your charging system if it is good and the battery is duff...compare $600 vs $100 )
all checks require a fully charged battery...do you have a battery charger ( which will "charge" a battery...a "tender" will maintain a charged battery)
when sitting there is drain from the battery, radio memory, alarm...and current can flow between the poles of a dirty battery.
So that is probably why the battery is dead.
We have to charge it overnight to know
the checks for charging system have been posted many times ( tech section/ electrical)
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...ting-alarm-43/
overview--- the stator produces AC current when the motor is running, spinning magnets around a coil of wire.
the current produced is roughly 16 to 22 volts PER 1000 rpms
that electricity them goes to the voltage regulator which
converts AC to DC
limits the voltage to below about 14.8 volts ( converts excess to heat which is why there are cooling fins- never use a cover on these, like the chrome geegaws in catalogs)
and that goes to the battery
the VR can fail in a number of ways:
bad diode allows AC voltage to pass
bad diode allows DC to drain backwards when stopped ( check with ammeter)
voltage above 15 volts
voltage below 12 ish ( at the regulator - not the battery- dependent on ample power from stator
do not overlook cables connections- the battery cables at both ends- the wire from the VR to the battery ( seen these snipped or insulation torn...shorting on frame)
B.) are you under warranty?
C.) riding weather? it is a bad idea to start the bike for short periods in the winter. condensation will form inside the cases and exhaust. and the bike doesn;t get hot enough to boil out the water.
mike
( DO NOT jump your bike hoping to "charge the battery" this can burn up your charging system if it is good and the battery is duff...compare $600 vs $100 )
all checks require a fully charged battery...do you have a battery charger ( which will "charge" a battery...a "tender" will maintain a charged battery)
when sitting there is drain from the battery, radio memory, alarm...and current can flow between the poles of a dirty battery.
So that is probably why the battery is dead.
We have to charge it overnight to know
the checks for charging system have been posted many times ( tech section/ electrical)
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...ting-alarm-43/
overview--- the stator produces AC current when the motor is running, spinning magnets around a coil of wire.
the current produced is roughly 16 to 22 volts PER 1000 rpms
that electricity them goes to the voltage regulator which
converts AC to DC
limits the voltage to below about 14.8 volts ( converts excess to heat which is why there are cooling fins- never use a cover on these, like the chrome geegaws in catalogs)
and that goes to the battery
the VR can fail in a number of ways:
bad diode allows AC voltage to pass
bad diode allows DC to drain backwards when stopped ( check with ammeter)
voltage above 15 volts
voltage below 12 ish ( at the regulator - not the battery- dependent on ample power from stator
do not overlook cables connections- the battery cables at both ends- the wire from the VR to the battery ( seen these snipped or insulation torn...shorting on frame)
B.) are you under warranty?
C.) riding weather? it is a bad idea to start the bike for short periods in the winter. condensation will form inside the cases and exhaust. and the bike doesn;t get hot enough to boil out the water.
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 12-23-2014 at 12:06 PM.
#4
#5
Thanks for the replies. I use a battery tender jr. When the battery is discharged, it will charge the battery and shut off so I typically will leave that on the bike in the winter as I don't ride that often. However, I do ride during the winter months from time to time.
I don't start the bike during the winter unless I am riding. Only reason I did this time was to check the battery only because I was having this trouble. Much to my surprise the battery was dead again.
I believe I still have warranty for another month. If this is a charging system issue I would like to get it fixed under warranty.
I don't start the bike during the winter unless I am riding. Only reason I did this time was to check the battery only because I was having this trouble. Much to my surprise the battery was dead again.
I believe I still have warranty for another month. If this is a charging system issue I would like to get it fixed under warranty.
#6
...don't rely on a tender to charge.
it doesn;t have the capacity ( amps)
for example a 10 amp/hour battery would require a 2 amp charge for 5+ hours to charge up...add a bit for windage, sacrificial losses
I often charge overnight- a good charger will have a meter which will help show the rate of charge
as above, and I promise, a charger will charge a battery (unless it is chemically or physically unable)
a tender will maintain a charged battery.
the lights on a tender are less an indication of the battery condition, more an indication of what the tender is able to do for you.
I use tenders on alot of vehicles.
but I use a charger to charge batteries
and all the way back to the beginning, charging system checks need be done with a fully charged battery, or the readings are skewed.
got some warranty?
take it in ( if HOG use the roadservice- but see the complaint thread)
explain this:
the voltmeter read low ( don;t say how low...as in "zero") just say "low"
I bought a new battery ( if you bought from them say "this dealership sold me a new battery"- that implies they could have looked further for you...advising you as a customer under warranty) which is now discharged.
"It looks like the charging system has failed"
these are good terms to get your warranty concern solved.
mike
it doesn;t have the capacity ( amps)
for example a 10 amp/hour battery would require a 2 amp charge for 5+ hours to charge up...add a bit for windage, sacrificial losses
I often charge overnight- a good charger will have a meter which will help show the rate of charge
as above, and I promise, a charger will charge a battery (unless it is chemically or physically unable)
a tender will maintain a charged battery.
the lights on a tender are less an indication of the battery condition, more an indication of what the tender is able to do for you.
I use tenders on alot of vehicles.
but I use a charger to charge batteries
and all the way back to the beginning, charging system checks need be done with a fully charged battery, or the readings are skewed.
got some warranty?
take it in ( if HOG use the roadservice- but see the complaint thread)
explain this:
the voltmeter read low ( don;t say how low...as in "zero") just say "low"
I bought a new battery ( if you bought from them say "this dealership sold me a new battery"- that implies they could have looked further for you...advising you as a customer under warranty) which is now discharged.
"It looks like the charging system has failed"
these are good terms to get your warranty concern solved.
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 12-23-2014 at 03:06 PM.
#7
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#8
Back in October while on a ride I noticed my voltage warning light had come on. I checked the Volt meter and it was reading under 10 volts. By the time I got home the volt meter was reading reading 0 volts although the bike of course was still running. Hooked up the batter tender jr and was able to get the battery to charge but it wouldn't hold. Originally battery was two years old and I only use a battery tender during winter months when not riding.
Replaced the original battery with a new battery and bike would start and everything appeared fine. I did not put a battery tender on the bike and it has not run since I have changed the battery. Went out to start the bike and the new battery is stone cold dead again. Put a battery tender on it and it won't charge.
I can't understand how a brand new battery would be dead in under 2 months. Is this a voltage regulator or alternator issue? Bike's warranty ends in January so if it' a warranty item I can get it fixed.
Any suggestions to those who are mechanically inclined? Don't want to pay to have it towed to dealer if it's a simple bad battery again. Thanks for the help.
Replaced the original battery with a new battery and bike would start and everything appeared fine. I did not put a battery tender on the bike and it has not run since I have changed the battery. Went out to start the bike and the new battery is stone cold dead again. Put a battery tender on it and it won't charge.
I can't understand how a brand new battery would be dead in under 2 months. Is this a voltage regulator or alternator issue? Bike's warranty ends in January so if it' a warranty item I can get it fixed.
Any suggestions to those who are mechanically inclined? Don't want to pay to have it towed to dealer if it's a simple bad battery again. Thanks for the help.
#9
JOW_13
Your bike does have a constant drain on the battery from the alarm system, radio, clock, etc. A HD battery is not a very large unit as like in a car battery. Keep the bike on the Tender while it is sitting idle for any long period of time i.e. a week or more. Make damn sure all lights and switches are in the off position. Once you run a battery all the way down to total discharge whether by mistake or otherwise it won't be very long before you'll be buying a new unit. A battery tender is your friend, learn to use it!
Your bike does have a constant drain on the battery from the alarm system, radio, clock, etc. A HD battery is not a very large unit as like in a car battery. Keep the bike on the Tender while it is sitting idle for any long period of time i.e. a week or more. Make damn sure all lights and switches are in the off position. Once you run a battery all the way down to total discharge whether by mistake or otherwise it won't be very long before you'll be buying a new unit. A battery tender is your friend, learn to use it!
#10
Back in October while on a ride I noticed my voltage warning light had come on. I checked the Volt meter and it was reading under 10 volts. By the time I got home the volt meter was reading reading 0 volts although the bike of course was still running. Hooked up the batter tender jr and was able to get the battery to charge but it wouldn't hold. Originally battery was two years old and I only use a battery tender during winter months when not riding.
Replaced the original battery with a new battery and bike would start and everything appeared fine. I did not put a battery tender on the bike and it has not run since I have changed the battery. Went out to start the bike and the new battery is stone cold dead again. Put a battery tender on it and it won't charge.
I can't understand how a brand new battery would be dead in under 2 months. Is this a voltage regulator or alternator issue? Bike's warranty ends in January so if it' a warranty item I can get it fixed.
Any suggestions to those who are mechanically inclined? Don't want to pay to have it towed to dealer if it's a simple bad battery again. Thanks for the help.
Replaced the original battery with a new battery and bike would start and everything appeared fine. I did not put a battery tender on the bike and it has not run since I have changed the battery. Went out to start the bike and the new battery is stone cold dead again. Put a battery tender on it and it won't charge.
I can't understand how a brand new battery would be dead in under 2 months. Is this a voltage regulator or alternator issue? Bike's warranty ends in January so if it' a warranty item I can get it fixed.
Any suggestions to those who are mechanically inclined? Don't want to pay to have it towed to dealer if it's a simple bad battery again. Thanks for the help.