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Hi all, longtime reader and first time poster. I have a pretty much all stock 07 Electra Glide standard I'm slowing making mine after putting almost 25K on an 06 Sportster (I'm kicking myself for not upgrading much sooner!!).
So I picked up some heated gear for winter riding (HD heated jacket liner, pant liner and gloves. First let me tell you this stuff is amazing and I rode in 10 degree weather last week and was borderline sweating on the high setting! I have the in-line fuse installed as per the manual for all 3 in series that are wired directly to the battery. Everything else on the bike is relatively stock. I'm planning to upgrade the stereo system soon with new upper fairing speakers an amp and lower fairing speakers and possibly rear tour pack speakers. My question is will the planned amp along with my heated gear cause me to need to upgrade the charging system with a higher output stator/alternator?? Thanks all!
add up ALL the watts to determine the current requirements... ( heated stuff, stereo, amp, lights etc)
500 watts ( at 12 volts) equals 42 amps.
if you think you are marginal on the charging system you could upgrade...or you may do well adding an aux battery in the saddlebag...and a bunch of bricks in the other!
try to calculate the total load- the formula is called ohms law, there are online calculators, enter the watts and 12 volts and it'll tell you the current ( amps) required
mike
good idea below to swap the headlight for an LED...but check the rated load is worth the $300 for a headlight
Last edited by mkguitar; Jan 11, 2015 at 07:21 PM.
You could do like the electric companies do. You could "harvest" some extra power by converting some of your lighting to LEDs thereby making more available for your new gear.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by Smokey Stover
Doesn't a signal stabilizer needed with most LED set-ups negate any savings?
What is the function of this "signal stabilizer"? Is it a resistive load?
I was wondering if we had to keep a continuous power drain in case the headlight accidently blew during the day.
OP, considering the cost and trouble related to repairs I would make sure both battery and regulator can handle heated gear plus the rest. At some point the battery needs to recharge and this takes time.
[QUOTE=Expat1;13586789]What is the function of this "signal stabilizer"? Is it a resistive load?
All I know is on the '13' and older systems it's required because when switching from incandesant bulbs to LED's( turn signals/RST tail lights only not heaadlight) the lower voltage gives you the fast flashing warning like it thinks a bulb is burnt out. So it must increase/equalize the load.
Doesn't a signal stabilizer needed with most LED set-ups negate any savings?
i would think that it would be negligible. it isn't like you run with your blinkers on all day. i hope.... plus, that would only be for the signals, your main savings would be in the led headlght.
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