Front fender question.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 126
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From: Ontario
Front fender question.
I was wondering if any knows whether or not all the front touring fenders from 2009 or so to 2014 are the same? Did Harley actually change it or just add another useless hole to the original fender bracket.
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
the front fender will interchange to 1978
the are different holes depending on badges, lights, trim, mudguard etc. for each model and year.
the stamping is the same...pretty much
2014 introduced the new forks and the old fender will mount up...with some work...
what is it you want to do?
the online part manual at ronnies is an easy way to figure out what fits what
mike
the are different holes depending on badges, lights, trim, mudguard etc. for each model and year.
the stamping is the same...pretty much
2014 introduced the new forks and the old fender will mount up...with some work...
what is it you want to do?
the online part manual at ronnies is an easy way to figure out what fits what
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jan 14, 2015 at 11:50 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,105
Likes: 16
From: Blaine, WA
While I've never tried to stick a pre-14 fender on a 14+ or vs versa - I can tell you that he mounting method did change in 14. Prior models just had a hold the bolt passed through from the center out and screwed into the boss on the fork.
2014 up the bolt/screw goes in from the outside and threads into an integrated nut that is part of the fender. Now if the hole spacing is the same I suppose you could make one or the other work but for straight bolt on - they are different.
2014 up the bolt/screw goes in from the outside and threads into an integrated nut that is part of the fender. Now if the hole spacing is the same I suppose you could make one or the other work but for straight bolt on - they are different.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 126
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From: Ontario
Well I wanted to change out my limited fender for a sg fender to get rid of the bumper and fender trim. I picked up a older style fender from a parts place here and he said it would fit. Tonight my buddy was looking into a 22" front rim from another fella with a 2015 and he said the fenders were different. I also found a couple things that said the bolt holes were different. I never had a chance to fit it before it got dropped off for paint so I want to make sure before the trouble it's right. I called the painter he measured the mounting holes and compared them to my stock fender and they were different. So that is why I sprked up the thread. Sometimes it's easier to just sound like a newbie and ask lol
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
so here's my real answer:
since you are having it painted- do a bunch of work to make it right.
mock mount it up... mark what holes need to be filled with steel, what holes need to be drilled or have threaded mounts altered etc.
and weld the mount to the fender- loose those rivets
once you have the fender sitting the way you want ( on the wheel and tire you will use & leave at least 1/2inch / 12 mm clearance between tire and inner surface of the fender) have the extra holes welded up, then do the bodywork and paint.
done.
anytime a rider is doing paint- look at extra holes and rivets that can be smoothed.
for a rear fender, sometime the mount holes are drilled above the old ones to drop the fender onto the wheel.
when working on mounts, try to get any radius to follow the same arc as the disk, wheel and tire- sometime a poorly mounted fender will have a different arc and the end result can look goofy
Mike
since you are having it painted- do a bunch of work to make it right.
mock mount it up... mark what holes need to be filled with steel, what holes need to be drilled or have threaded mounts altered etc.
and weld the mount to the fender- loose those rivets
once you have the fender sitting the way you want ( on the wheel and tire you will use & leave at least 1/2inch / 12 mm clearance between tire and inner surface of the fender) have the extra holes welded up, then do the bodywork and paint.
done.
anytime a rider is doing paint- look at extra holes and rivets that can be smoothed.
for a rear fender, sometime the mount holes are drilled above the old ones to drop the fender onto the wheel.
when working on mounts, try to get any radius to follow the same arc as the disk, wheel and tire- sometime a poorly mounted fender will have a different arc and the end result can look goofy
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jan 13, 2015 at 08:30 PM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,105
Likes: 16
From: Blaine, WA
so here's my real answer.
mount it up... mark what holes need to be filled with steel, what holes need to be drilled or have mounts altered etc.
once you have the fender sitting the way you want ( on the wheel and tire you will use) have the extra holes welded up, then do the bodywork and paint.
done.
Mike
mount it up... mark what holes need to be filled with steel, what holes need to be drilled or have mounts altered etc.
once you have the fender sitting the way you want ( on the wheel and tire you will use) have the extra holes welded up, then do the bodywork and paint.
done.
Mike
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 126
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From: Ontario
I actually found a 14 fender on here so that should be on its way it will save some heart ache since I will only have to have the black blown on and the red pinstripe done. I will use the amberwhiskey I have on the speaker lids and some other trim pieces on the bike. The fender I got before has a ding in it to that got tapped out and it's been blocked out and primed so far going to shoot it vivid black and resell it. Either that while its in prime I will take it to the guy I got it from and see if he will do the right thing and give me my cash back and he will have a mint fender instead of a dung up one he sold me. Just glad it got caught now not being completely done. Sometimes being in anxious to get something done isn't good
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