I reused my exhaust flange nuts on my road king after inspecting my cam tensioners the bastards would not stay tight. Since the stealer was closed I went to autozone in the search for new flange nuts. Couldn't find any so i picked up some torque locking nuts and washers(both grade 8). My question is how much torque is added to the final torque to compensate for the run on or "prevailing" torque. From a fastener chart that i found it states 120-160in-lb (min-max) assembly torque. So i added that to the service manuals 100-120 and came up with 220-280inlb...torqued em down a little at a time on both sides til i hit 20ftlb(240inlb). Does this sound correct or did i fud up?

 

I would go with 120-160inlb total and use anti-sieze on the threads for a exhaust flange with torque locking nuts. If not used properly these nuts have a better chance of galling the threads.

 

How much hell is it going to be to remove the lock nuts as is? Also id have to disgard them after removal right? I haven't heat cycled them yet so maybe after i do theyll losen back up to your specified torque? Sorry for all of the questions im new to the whole lock nut idea...thinking i may better off to just remove em and go snag some flange nuts from the dealer...

 

the price of a busted stud is pulling the head off.

what I would do ( with my experience and education)...is torque to the value specified by HD.

for most fasteners, I torque to the lower end of the scale.

I do not know exactly which product from autozone you are using...details please



Mike

 

Harley does not use those locking nuts, probably because of the grip they impart can cause the threads to gall easier than standard nuts.
If you leave them on at that torque the stud could snap from vibration, it's like a time bomb. If you remove them they can lock up (gall), but it's a chance I would take, then put the stock nuts on with anti-seize. I just re-use the stock nuts.

 

^^^ this , I got lucky when I broke an exhaust stud because of the lock but galling and hanging up, it broke in the rear cylinder so I did have to remove the head. It was a pita to get that stud out.
I would re-use the oem nuts or go get some new ones. Install to proper torque specs and use anti seize.

 

You're really over thinking this deal IMHO. What ever Harley states in their manual would include nut drag on the factory nut. Not to sound like a smart **** but we're talking frigging exhaust flange nuts not o-rings in a solid rocket booster. Just torque them up and ride. If you feel you over torqued them loosen them up and torque them again. They aren't some critical torque to yield one time throw away or the world will end nut.

 

We are talking about a lock nut...completely different than a regular nut in terms of being installed.

 

Removed the lock nuts with relative ease. The threads on the studs dont look to bad either. Gonna go to the dealer sunday and buy some new flange nuts.

 

I miss the good old days, when the torque spec was quantified as "grunt"