Here is my problem. Installed a new clutch cable, adjusted the clutch on the other side. Then I made sure the proper gap was on the cable. Started bike, put in first, with the clutch fully depressed, the bike is moving without the brakes on. Hard to get it in neutral. Had to shut the bike down to put in neutral. Any ideas what I can do to fix the problem. I am not a mech. so please explain.


Thanks

 

The adjuster under the down tube needs to have full slack in it. With the derby cover off and set bolt loosened, turn the Allen screw in till you feel resistance. Then back off a 1/2 turn. Tighten the set nut and reinstall the derby cover. Then adjust the screw under the down tube till you have about a 1/16" of play in the clutch handle and then tighten and slip the boot over the adjuster.

Get your self a Service Manual.

 

Make sure you hold the adjustment screw behind the derby cover with the Allen wrench as your tightening the nut or it might turn on you.

 

 

Did you put fluid in it? How much? What kind? Do you own a service manual?

Primary takes 38 ounces if you drain and fill. If you pull the cover it takes 45 oz. My local Harley parts guy said "just a quart". Can't trust them.

 

I did that, and yes I have a service manual.

 

Adjust it again, the 1/16" includes any play in the pin and cable inside lever housing,may seem close. I need every bit of slack out due to the heavy duty SE spring. Oh and definatly don't over fill primary.

 

Was the bike warmed up at all when any of this happened? I know my neutral can be a little cranky if the bike is still cold.

I was sitting debating for a few moments whether or not I really wanted to help a Steelers fan out...

 

When you turned the Allen screw in behind the derby cover are you running it in with a wrench till it bottoms out? If so you are running it in too far. You turn it in till finger tight and then back off 1/2 turn.

I saw someone once turn the screw in with a wrench till tight and then back off 1/2 turn and the bike acted similar to what you describe from what I recall.

 

My adjustment method is pretty much the same as everyone else's but I do a thing or two different. When setting the set screw in the clutch basket I always back it out a few turns first. Then turn it in till I feel resistance. Back it out again, then back in. I'll do this a few times to be certain I'm feeling what I'm supposed to be feeling and not a boogered thread or something like that. Once I've found the resistance, I back out 1 full turn (I get better clutch lock up like this), then hold set screw and snug up the jam nut. It doesn't have to be super tight. Once I've gotten the slack adjusted out of the cable I'll pull the clutch lever a few times then I'll grab the cable where it exits the clutch lever perch and pull the cable towards the right side of the bike. You can then see exactly much slack you have between the perch and the ferrule on the end of the cable. This takes all the guess work out of it. Adjust the slack adjuster till you get that gap down to 1/8-1/16ths and you should be good to go.

2010 Limited with some stuff