Clutch
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 377
Likes: 1
From: Pittsburgh
Clutch
Here is my problem. Installed a new clutch cable, adjusted the clutch on the other side. Then I made sure the proper gap was on the cable. Started bike, put in first, with the clutch fully depressed, the bike is moving without the brakes on. Hard to get it in neutral. Had to shut the bike down to put in neutral. Any ideas what I can do to fix the problem. I am not a mech. so please explain.
Thanks
Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,478
Likes: 184
From: Mount Airy, MD
The adjuster under the down tube needs to have full slack in it. With the derby cover off and set bolt loosened, turn the Allen screw in till you feel resistance. Then back off a 1/2 turn. Tighten the set nut and reinstall the derby cover. Then adjust the screw under the down tube till you have about a 1/16" of play in the clutch handle and then tighten and slip the boot over the adjuster.
Get your self a Service Manual.
Get your self a Service Manual.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 473
Likes: 5
From: New Braunfels TX
The adjuster under the down tube needs to have full slack in it. With the derby cover off and set bolt loosened, turn the Allen screw in till you feel resistance. Then back off a 1/2 turn. Tighten the set nut and reinstall the derby cover. Then adjust the screw under the down tube till you have about a 1/16" of play in the clutch handle and then tighten and slip the boot over the adjuster.
Get your self a Service Manual.
Get your self a Service Manual.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 1,601
From: Eastern Ohio
Did you put fluid in it? How much? What kind? Do you own a service manual?
Primary takes 38 ounces if you drain and fill. If you pull the cover it takes 45 oz. My local Harley parts guy said "just a quart". Can't trust them.
Primary takes 38 ounces if you drain and fill. If you pull the cover it takes 45 oz. My local Harley parts guy said "just a quart". Can't trust them.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 377
Likes: 1
From: Pittsburgh
I did that, and yes I have a service manual.
The adjuster under the down tube needs to have full slack in it. With the derby cover off and set bolt loosened, turn the Allen screw in till you feel resistance. Then back off a 1/2 turn. Tighten the set nut and reinstall the derby cover. Then adjust the screw under the down tube till you have about a 1/16" of play in the clutch handle and then tighten and slip the boot over the adjuster.
Get your self a Service Manual.
Get your self a Service Manual.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 55
From: Florida
Adjust it again, the 1/16" includes any play in the pin and cable inside lever housing,may seem close. I need every bit of slack out due to the heavy duty SE spring. Oh and definatly don't over fill primary.
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 465
Likes: 5
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Was the bike warmed up at all when any of this happened? I know my neutral can be a little cranky if the bike is still cold.
I was sitting debating for a few moments whether or not I really wanted to help a Steelers fan out...
I was sitting debating for a few moments whether or not I really wanted to help a Steelers fan out...
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,478
Likes: 184
From: Mount Airy, MD
When you turned the Allen screw in behind the derby cover are you running it in with a wrench till it bottoms out? If so you are running it in too far. You turn it in till finger tight and then back off 1/2 turn.
I saw someone once turn the screw in with a wrench till tight and then back off 1/2 turn and the bike acted similar to what you describe from what I recall.
I saw someone once turn the screw in with a wrench till tight and then back off 1/2 turn and the bike acted similar to what you describe from what I recall.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,637
Likes: 1,246
From: Lake, Ms
My adjustment method is pretty much the same as everyone else's but I do a thing or two different. When setting the set screw in the clutch basket I always back it out a few turns first. Then turn it in till I feel resistance. Back it out again, then back in. I'll do this a few times to be certain I'm feeling what I'm supposed to be feeling and not a boogered thread or something like that. Once I've found the resistance, I back out 1 full turn (I get better clutch lock up like this), then hold set screw and snug up the jam nut. It doesn't have to be super tight. Once I've gotten the slack adjusted out of the cable I'll pull the clutch lever a few times then I'll grab the cable where it exits the clutch lever perch and pull the cable towards the right side of the bike. You can then see exactly much slack you have between the perch and the ferrule on the end of the cable. This takes all the guess work out of it. Adjust the slack adjuster till you get that gap down to 1/8-1/16ths and you should be good to go.
2010 Limited with some stuff
2010 Limited with some stuff
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