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I'm just wondering if anybody else is having this problem. I went for a ride this morning and I noticed that my clutch cable had some play in it. Well when I went to adjust it my adjustment is already adjusted all the way out. Can anyone offer any advice on what I should do to fix this problem. thanks.
If the adjustment to the throw out bearing in the derby cover is screwed out too far this will happen. Read the book on how to adjust. This should be done every time you change fluid.
If the adjustment to the throw out bearing in the derby cover is screwed out too far this will happen. Read the book on how to adjust. This should be done every time you change fluid.
Thanks I'll check that out right away I thank you for your advice.
This should be done whenever you perform your servicing.
Hit your service manual, laid out very nicely.
Very simple process:
1. Secure bike; standing bike upright and balanced
2. Remove derby cover on primary
3. Move rubber boot on clutch cable, loose locking nut and loosen - this will add play in the clutch
4. Loosen locking nut on throw out bearing (center of the clutch)
5. Screw throw out rod in, until it slightly bottoms out; turn back out 1/2 turn
6. Pull clutch handle (fully) 3 times - this seats the bearings
7. While ensuring the throw out rod is secure, tighten the locking nut. I made my own tool to allow me to hold the rod steady while tightening the lock nut. Basically it's an old wrench with a socket welde dto the end.
8. Put derby cover back on
9. Adjust the clutch cable for the properly play and return rubber boot into position.
10. Done.
This should be done whenever you perform your servicing.
Hit your service manual, laid out very nicely.
Very simple process:
1. Secure bike; standing bike upright and balanced
2. Remove derby cover on primary
3. Move rubber boot on clutch cable, loose locking nut and loosen - this will add play in the clutch
4. Loosen locking nut on throw out bearing (center of the clutch)
5. Screw throw out rod in, until it slightly bottoms out; turn back out 1/2 turn
6. Pull clutch handle (fully) 3 times - this seats the bearings
7. While ensuring the throw out rod is secure, tighten the locking nut. I made my own tool to allow me to hold the rod steady while tightening the lock nut. Basically it's an old wrench with a socket welde dto the end.
8. Put derby cover back on
9. Adjust the clutch cable for the properly play and return rubber boot into position.
10. Done.
Perfect description on stock clucth components. If you have an EZ clutch, as I do, it is only 1/8 turn back instead of 1/2
Perfect description on stock clucth components. If you have an EZ clutch, as I do, it is only 1/8 turn back instead of 1/2
Mine is stock 08 FLHX with the easy clutch stock and it gives the 1/2 to 1 full turn instruction on the clutch adjuster screw. Maybe things have changed in the newer models
I have an aftermarket EZ clutch in my 97 and my 2011. It makes it even easier than the 06 and later stock EZ clutch. I have the Muller AG power clutch $161. World of difference on 97 and huge improvement on 2011.
It does however need the 1/8 turn adjustment.
I have an aftermarket EZ clutch in my 97 and my 2011. It makes it even easier than the 06 and later stock EZ clutch. I have the Muller AG power clutch $161. World of difference on 97 and huge improvement on 2011.
It does however need the 1/8 turn adjustment.
The adjustment difference makes sense when you state that it make the clutch easier to pull as it will have less travel available at the rod with more leverage in the ball and ramp. I wasn't sure what model the OP has or if he had any aftermarket parts clutch wise so I just was adding my bit. I guess I need to look over the responses better to see he had stated he had an 08 Touring.
Last edited by qtrracer; Jul 26, 2011 at 04:01 PM.
Yes that less travel in the ball ramp requires paying close attention the initial and final settings as it uses nearly the full travel of the clutch lever to fully disengage the clutch.
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