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I have a question.
I have a '14 SG and the rear break pedal is pretty wide. I can't stretch my leg out. I pulled the cover off and noticed that, if I trim off about 3/4" of the "main" part of the pedal I can move it over (the adjusting slot allows for that) The question I have is, if I pull the pedal assembly off, I will need to unhook it from the break master cylinder. Will I then need to bleed the break when I re-install it? I could not find a return spring that pushes the pedal back so I am assuming the pressure in the cylinder pushes it back.
I attached a pic.
Thanks
Dave
You don't open the hydraulic system to remove the pedal. Remove floorboard. Loosen m/c reservoir. Remove pedal mounting bolt. Remove cotter pin and pin that attachs the pedal to the m/c rod.
Thats a quick version. Better version in your service annual.
Won't the m/c rod push it's way out too far?? Therefor, draw in air??
Something is pushing back on the pedal. I could not find a return spring.
The bike has ABS. I understand bleeding the break system is not as easy as "pump and drain"
Won't the m/c rod push it's way out too far?? Therefor, draw in air?? Something is pushing back on the pedal. I could not find a return spring. The bike has ABS. I understand bleeding the break system is not as easy as "pump and drain"
Nothing will fall apart, leak or go boom! I really shouldn't say that cause I know people that can break a anvil....
Won't the m/c rod push it's way out too far?? Therefor, draw in air??
Something is pushing back on the pedal. I could not find a return spring.
The bike has ABS. I understand bleeding the break system is not as easy as "pump and drain"
If this helps I had mine off and had no problems when I installed my new one, do what RED said and you will have nothing to worry about.
If I recall, you do not need to loosen the master cylinder either there is a pin from the master cylinder to the arm to disconnect.
The arm/switch/rod from the M/C is extended all the way out when the break arm is disengaged, so when you remove the connecting pin to the break arm there will be no more travel for the switch/rod to move, there for you do not need to worry about air or anything. I hope this makes sense.
Last edited by TcHunter; May 30, 2015 at 10:47 PM.
there's a clip that keeps the m/c piston from coming out when you disconnect the pushrod. no air will get into it.
ps, the return spring is behind the piston inside the m/c.
Maybe I'm missing something here. If you trim off part of the metal pedal, what are you going to use to cover it back up??? The rubber pad isn't going to fit any more, and nothing I know of is going to fit unless you find a smaller pad and trim the pedal to it's specs.
Or, you could buy some highway pegs and skip all that crap.
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