Changing Calipers
I'm curious as to why you don't paint the calipers you have? It can be brushed on and there's no bleeding afterwards.
Also, if you go forward with the change-over do not drain the master cylinder. As long as you don't move the lever no brake fluid will come out of it (cover the gas tank anyway).
Also, if you go forward with the change-over do not drain the master cylinder. As long as you don't move the lever no brake fluid will come out of it (cover the gas tank anyway).
Are you saying when i take off the old caliper no brake fluid will leak out of the end of the line? Sorry for all the follow up questions...my first time at this project...want to cover the bases.
I just swapped my stock black calipers for a pair of chrome ones. While I was at it, I also added the chrome bleeder screws.
You'll need to use new brass crush washers. One is installed on the bleeder screw, then through the banjo fitting, then a second crush washer. From there, screw into the new caliper, and bleed away.
Before doing anything, I cover all the painted parts with plastic that is used for painting. It's available in rolls and is quite wide in size. You can cut to length. Cover the tank, fender, and fairings...
As for the actual work, I did the following:
1 - Remove the stock calipers and pull the brake pads. Install pads in new calipers. Mount stock calipers back to forks.
2 - Loosen the bleeder screws on the existing calipers while they'e on the forks - if you try to do this with the calipers not mounted, you'll have a hard time holding the caliper and getting enough torque on the bleeder screw. Just loosen the bleeder screws enough that you can remove them without the calipers being mounted on the forks.
3 - Install new calipers onto forks.
4 - With paper towels/shop towels handy, unscrew the bleeder screws and discard crush washers. Install new washers and attach lines to new calipers. You will get fluid that leaks out from the brake lines during this step. It should be minimal if you're expedient about this step.
5 - Bleed brakes - for this, since you're fluid has never been flushed, I would just use the mighty-vac hand pump and suck all the fluid through as you continue to top it off. When you begin to get clean fluid, you're done.
6 - Test brake firmness and function.
7 - Clean up the calipers and be sure to wipe up any brake fluid that leaked out during the process.
You'll need to use new brass crush washers. One is installed on the bleeder screw, then through the banjo fitting, then a second crush washer. From there, screw into the new caliper, and bleed away.
Before doing anything, I cover all the painted parts with plastic that is used for painting. It's available in rolls and is quite wide in size. You can cut to length. Cover the tank, fender, and fairings...
As for the actual work, I did the following:
1 - Remove the stock calipers and pull the brake pads. Install pads in new calipers. Mount stock calipers back to forks.
2 - Loosen the bleeder screws on the existing calipers while they'e on the forks - if you try to do this with the calipers not mounted, you'll have a hard time holding the caliper and getting enough torque on the bleeder screw. Just loosen the bleeder screws enough that you can remove them without the calipers being mounted on the forks.
3 - Install new calipers onto forks.
4 - With paper towels/shop towels handy, unscrew the bleeder screws and discard crush washers. Install new washers and attach lines to new calipers. You will get fluid that leaks out from the brake lines during this step. It should be minimal if you're expedient about this step.
5 - Bleed brakes - for this, since you're fluid has never been flushed, I would just use the mighty-vac hand pump and suck all the fluid through as you continue to top it off. When you begin to get clean fluid, you're done.
6 - Test brake firmness and function.
7 - Clean up the calipers and be sure to wipe up any brake fluid that leaked out during the process.
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