Lowering kit advice
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 4,805
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From: Cincinnati OH.
LA Choppers
i'm going with the L A choppers kit. Lowering one inch seems to be fairly harmless, and their kit looks super strong. I probably don't ride hard enough for it to ever be an issue anyway. I like the idea of keeping the stock shock angle.
Last edited by Cozz; Dec 19, 2015 at 04:49 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 107
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From: Queensland, Australia
I'm certain the lowering blocks are transferring stresses to places that are not designed for them, and changing the angle of your shocks is going to impact (negatively) on your ride quality.
I would seriously look at the option of Street Glide shocks on the rear and Progressive drop-in fork springs up front. Personal experience tells me that this is an excellent combination and not an expensive option to lower the bike and preserve ride quality.
Good luck
I would seriously look at the option of Street Glide shocks on the rear and Progressive drop-in fork springs up front. Personal experience tells me that this is an excellent combination and not an expensive option to lower the bike and preserve ride quality.
Good luck
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,776
Likes: 2,252
From: wet coast BC
Is this a personal choice or do you have some technical reason not to use lowering blocks. do you consider a slight shock angle change critical for operation? seems to be many choices and people using them.
Steve
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
Several reasons. I'm an engineer and that shock mount is one of the most highly stressed parts of the bike and I wouldn't use an add-on of any sort in that location. I don't like compromises and have high expectations of my bikes, so when making changes to something as critical as the shocks I look to get as much out of them as possible, so I fit good ones for improved ride quality and buy them to fit just right. Also there is no such thing as a cheap Harley touring bike and I reckon every one of them deserves decent shocks, not cheap add-on bits! I know the MoCo persists in using cheap shocks, but if we are going to make any improvements to our bikes, then at least make them good ones!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: wet coast BC
So it is a personal choice then.
as you may remember I too have shocks from Howard. I still wonder why other than personal choice the top of line 13 inch Ohlin cannot be lowered an inch to satisfy the vertically challenged. I knew you were an engineer and expected if anyone had the technical reason it would be you. Now it seems there is no reason not to use lowering blocks other than a personal choice.
as you may remember I too have shocks from Howard. I still wonder why other than personal choice the top of line 13 inch Ohlin cannot be lowered an inch to satisfy the vertically challenged. I knew you were an engineer and expected if anyone had the technical reason it would be you. Now it seems there is no reason not to use lowering blocks other than a personal choice.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
Steve, all the versions of shocks that Howard sells can be had in more than one length. It happens that I have #3-3, which are 13" long, with a small degree of reduction that is built-in, but they can be had in several lengths, including 12". So it isn't necessary to use lowering blocks. Howard builds some lengths in sizes that Ohlins themselves don't offer us, because he raids their parts bins, so may also be able to offer other sizes. It is well worth calling him to see what he can offer. I certainly wouldn't mention lowering blocks to him though!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: wet coast BC
Graham, I do not have a problem with my shocks. My 13" shocks with sag sit where my 12 inch used to sit.
I am trying to get a discussion on why lowering blocks are good or not good. a 12 inch shock loses 1" of stroke to get lowered one inch. why would anyone have to give up that 33% of stroke when a 13 inch shock with lowering blocks gives both lowering and longer stroke.
I ask you again as an engineer tell us why not to use lowering blocks from a technical point, not a personal one. Thanks.
I am trying to get a discussion on why lowering blocks are good or not good. a 12 inch shock loses 1" of stroke to get lowered one inch. why would anyone have to give up that 33% of stroke when a 13 inch shock with lowering blocks gives both lowering and longer stroke.
I ask you again as an engineer tell us why not to use lowering blocks from a technical point, not a personal one. Thanks.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,910
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I am running Howards 2-2bs with Burly 1" lowering blocks with no problems, have been since about a week or two after I put on the shocks. I have ridden 20,000 + miles this way carrying a passenger and a lot of the time luggage also.
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
#2~#1: Length 11 5/8"/296 mm, Stroke: 2 3/4"/71 mm
#2~#2: Length 12"/305 mm, Stroke: 2 1/2"/65 mm
#2~#2(A): Length 12 1/8"/309.5 mm, Stroke: 3 1/4"/83 mm
#2~#2(B): Length 12 7/8"/330 mm, Stroke: 3 5/16"/84 mm
#2~#3: Length 13 1/4"/337mm, Stroke: 4 3/32"/104 mm
#2~#4: 13 3/8"/340 mm, Stroke: 3 7.5/16"/88 mm
Ride quality is related to damper design. The #2 shocks listed above do not have as good a damper as the #3 does. My #3 shocks have only 3" of stroke, but for my application Howard assured my that they have superior damping to the longest #2 shocks above, with over 4" of stroke/travel.
So by selecting a suitable shock we can have as good a ride quality, or even better, with shorter travel shocks as a longer set can give.
Last edited by grbrown; Dec 27, 2015 at 05:46 PM.
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