Stuck bolt in trans case
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
From: S.E. Michigan
Thanks for all the replies, everyone.
Heat is not the trick, I've held heat to it and gotten the bolt very hot with nil results. This is not the typical bolt that's rusty and it just takes some finesse. I'll have to try the acetone 50/50 mix and see if that does anything, then after that I'll try the extractor method one more time. After that idk, guess I'll cross that bridge if I come to it.
Thanks again!
Heat is not the trick, I've held heat to it and gotten the bolt very hot with nil results. This is not the typical bolt that's rusty and it just takes some finesse. I'll have to try the acetone 50/50 mix and see if that does anything, then after that I'll try the extractor method one more time. After that idk, guess I'll cross that bridge if I come to it.
Thanks again!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 102
From: Central Illinois
That part of the transmission, the trap door, can be replaced if all else fails. In fact Baker Transmission sells an awesome polished or chrome plated billet cover, although its pricey. But its far better quality than the H-D one and has better bearings in it.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,593
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
Did you turn it red with at a minimum a map gas torch. If it won't turn, there is still thread there. You'll probably get it out then and at the most, just drill and tap it deeper and put a stud in it. Then use a cap nut. Pentrante seldom goes in cases like this. Probably sealed with loctite.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 2, 2016 at 01:49 PM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
From: S.E. Michigan
No I'll admit I did not get the stuck stud red hot. I was curious as to how much heat I could put on the area without warping anything, granted I know the majority of my heat will be on the bolt. Guys at a shop I talked to recommended 'freeze-off'. I'll be getting that in the mail Friday, hopefully working on it and have it removed early next week, one way or another. Unfortunately I work long hours for the next 5 days.
Thanks all!
Thanks all!
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,682
Likes: 8,413
From: Utah
Like Ripsaw say's - You will need to get that sucker hot to loosen the locktite. Use a propane torch and get it red hot. Lay a wet towel around the case to protect the paint and parts. I do like the looks of the tool in post 11.
Good luck and drink the beer after not before
Good luck and drink the beer after not before
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,593
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
propane will not work very well. Mapp gas is at best, the minimum heat 2925 degrees . It will get the stud red heat. Propane is so low temperature, the aluminum sucks the heat out and then it gets too hot. A new 12" vice grip brand will bite down into bolt. (no cheep generics here.) If you have hollowed out the stud all the way, that may be a problem. At worst case, here, you can go to a. I have broken off the long studs with springs on them in cat flanges with my impact that look like they would come out. Red heat and they screw out by hand.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 625
Likes: 12
From: Texas
Don't heat the bolt. Heat the case.. Heat causes expansion.. You want to expand the case and threads not the bolt.. It shouldn't take a lot of heat.. Impact is also a great thing. Just think it out.. Figure out how to impact the thread lock.. Hammer? Two hammers?