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If it were me, I would keep stepping up drill bits and drill the bolt until u finally drill it completely out, and then just re tap new threads in the casing
No don't keep stepping up bit size go with bit same size as head of bolt drill slow until head is gone remove derby cover and remove rest of stud by hand I see this all the time in my shop very easy to fix
I just read the 3 pages posted here. What is the lesson learned? To me in retrospect I never would have drilled the head off, that gave away all the best gripping area for removal. Instead if the tool had rounded the head off, I would have:
1-Used a quality grade tool, then
2-Used an anti-cam out fluid with a good tool, then
3-apply heat to the socket head of the bolt, even a small tip with acetylene directed in the socket until it was red (the goal is to break the threadlock grip), then
4-as Dawg said, get a good quality stud removal tool, then lastly
5th and lastly-if your going to drill, use a left hand drill bit. Chances are the bit will grip and spin the bolt out.
Whole trans case wont need to come out. It's just the "trap door" that they would replace. I doubt they would even mess around trying to get the bolt out. They would probably pull primary and gear set out and replace trap door and give you back your old one. What I would do is heat that stub with propane torch(smokin hot) to loosen Loctite and try with vise grips on what's left of the bolt.
The first thing I would have done is check the date on the original posting.
It is possible that someone else might have the same or a similar problem sometime in the future and can use the information. But hey, that's just me supposing.
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