Stuck bolt in trans case
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
From: Ontario
Do not heat case, even loctite require heat that will melt paint and distort that face. Mapp Gas heat range and shield case with scrap cut tin. . Heat stud red and let cool down. Will break loctite and if corrision, the red heat will expand steel stud and break bond and then shrink when cool.. The aluminum case is like a heat sink and unless you have a Mapp or hotter toarch, the aluminum will pull the heat and prevent it from going down stud until case gets too hot. After heat and cool down, hit it with a spray of PB Blaster if you can get it. Some states outlawed it. If you end up loosing the threads, you can use cover as a guide to get hole straight for either the next bigger thread or just tap same size deeper. Read my previous post.
When using MAPP gas with air for combustion burns at 2010*C(3650*F)
When using Propane with air for combustion burns at 1967*C(3572*F)
Aluminum melting point 660*C(1220*F)
Heat normally required to remove most threadlockers is 290*C(550*F)
Letting it cool down defeats the purpose of heating it. Loctite will harden again.
I know the heat source I would choose.
Last edited by Wilee; Feb 5, 2016 at 08:54 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,518
Likes: 57,069
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
I'd venture a guess that even if the bolt did come out ( highly unlikely ) there would be very little to no threads left when you consider the fact that the bolt has ( probably ) seized in the case. The threads have "galled". It's kind of like "cold welding" and little to nothing can be done to fix it other that drilling out the bolt ( which can be even tougher after heating ) and repairing with either an oversized bolt/stud, or something like I mentioned earlier, a Time-Sert or a Heli-Coil. I've seen this happen many times in my years as a mechanic. It's very frustrating but ... such is life !!
Last edited by Uncle Larry; Feb 5, 2016 at 10:03 AM. Reason: spelling
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Sanford, NC
Good luck on getting the bolt out.
Whenever any bolt is removed it should always get a dab of anti-seize on it for easy removal down the road. You can also use anti-seize what a drop or two of lock-tite on it to ensure it will not back out on you.
The differences in the metal alloys between the fasteners and the part it is going into causes all kinds of issues with stuck bolts etc.
Good luck!!!!
Whenever any bolt is removed it should always get a dab of anti-seize on it for easy removal down the road. You can also use anti-seize what a drop or two of lock-tite on it to ensure it will not back out on you.
The differences in the metal alloys between the fasteners and the part it is going into causes all kinds of issues with stuck bolts etc.
Good luck!!!!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,586
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
When using MAPP gas with oxygen for combustion burns at 2927*C(5300*F)
When using MAPP gas with air for combustion burns at 2010*C(3650*F)
When using Propane with air for combustion burns at 1967*C(3572*F)
Aluminum melting point 660*C(1220*F)
Heat normally required to remove most threadlockers is 290*C(550*F)
Letting it cool down defeats the purpose of heating it. Loctite will harden again.
I know the heat source I would choose.
When using MAPP gas with air for combustion burns at 2010*C(3650*F)
When using Propane with air for combustion burns at 1967*C(3572*F)
Aluminum melting point 660*C(1220*F)
Heat normally required to remove most threadlockers is 290*C(550*F)
Letting it cool down defeats the purpose of heating it. Loctite will harden again.
I know the heat source I would choose.
I sure never knew propane torch was 3572 F.
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
From: S.E. Michigan
I just got a can of crc 'freeze off' in the mail today. I'm going to use that as told by directions, and use a manual impact driver to hopefully break things up. After this if it's still a no-go it's going to be heated. Wish me luck...
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,681
Likes: 8,413
From: Utah
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
From: S.E. Michigan
Well after trying just about everything under the sun it still was not coming out. So I decided to muster up and do a helicoil. Sealed the case up real well and kept a small shop vac going while I cut the bolt flush in the case. Got some brand new sharp drill bits and went to town. For it being my first time doing a helicoil it actually was not that bad. Finished up the helicoil and a new bolt went in smoothly and cover went on nicely. Bike is back together and im actually going to go rip around on it right now.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Stripped bolts
No don't keep stepping on bit size go with bit same size as head of bolt drill slow until head is gone remove derby cover and remove rest of stud by hand I see this all the time in my shop very easy to fix