Stuck bolt in trans case
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
I would use the central carbon electrode of a common 1.5vdc battery connected to the bike's battery positive using one jumper cable. When you touch the seized screw there is only limited current flowing through the thread and you know heat passed where it was needed. The ground cable to the engine will not suffer from this.
BTW this system is used in body shops.
BTW this system is used in body shops.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,586
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
I would use the central carbon electrode of a common 1.5vdc battery connected to the bike's battery positive using one jumper cable. When you touch the seized screw there is only limited current flowing through the thread and you know heat passed where it was needed. The ground cable to the engine will not suffer from this.
BTW this system is used in body shops.
BTW this system is used in body shops.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 4, 2016 at 09:56 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Have you tried this? There is no resistance in carbon (least I did not think so when I did a little carbon arc since I assumed the metal rod was there to keep the carbon from breaking since it was hollow for the air blast) No way would I try it. There is a lot of electronics on a Harley these days. Might just weld ever roller bearing in the transmission as well.
You have an industrial example here for spot welding.
Another road-side repair tool here.
Last edited by Expat1; Feb 4, 2016 at 11:33 AM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
From: S.E. Michigan
Thanks for all the help guys, now I have a few more tricks to try before the last option...helicoil. The bolt is not drilled out all the way, a very short distance in it is so I could try an extractor but that wasn't moving it. I'll try to see if one of my buddies have a torch other than propane, that's all I've got. With the heating trick...you guys say to heat the case so it'll expand, my only fear is heating the case too much, any of you guys have issues with this?
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
From: Ontario
Don't heat the case, it's aluminum, it will melt or distort. Take a piece of tin the size of a sheet of paper, drill a 5/16 hole in it just off center. Slip the tin over the end of trans with the remaining piece of bolt thru the hole. Bend tin to shape if you have to. Now heat the bolt by moving the torch head all around the bolt till it is verrrrry hot. Pull tin off. Now try extractor or vice grips. Tin is for heat shield so you don't put heat where you don't want it. Propane should be enough heat. Keep fire ext. handy just in case.
Last edited by Wilee; Feb 4, 2016 at 03:11 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
If you apply a flame remember to cover the exposed parts that have oil on them. If you choose the helicoil try to mill/grind/file the old screw parallel to the surface. You can then use the cover to guide your drill in the exact position. Helicoils can also be out of alignment!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,586
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
Thanks for all the help guys, now I have a few more tricks to try before the last option...helicoil. The bolt is not drilled out all the way, a very short distance in it is so I could try an extractor but that wasn't moving it. I'll try to see if one of my buddies have a torch other than propane, that's all I've got. With the heating trick...you guys say to heat the case so it'll expand, my only fear is heating the case too much, any of you guys have issues with this?
Do not heat case, even loctite require heat that will melt paint and distort that face. Mapp Gas heat range and shield case with scrap cut tin. . Heat stud red and let cool down. Will break loctite and if corrision, the red heat will expand steel stud and break bond and then shrink when cool.. The aluminum case is like a heat sink and unless you have a Mapp or hotter toarch, the aluminum will pull the heat and prevent it from going down stud until case gets too hot. After heat and cool down, hit it with a spray of PB Blaster if you can get it. Some states outlawed it. If you end up loosing the threads, you can use cover as a guide to get hole straight for either the next bigger thread or just tap same size deeper. Read my previous post.
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,681
Likes: 8,413
From: Utah
Don't heat the case, it's aluminum, it will melt or distort. Take a piece of tin the size of a sheet of paper, drill a 5/16 hole in it just off center. Slip the tin over the end of trans with the remaining piece of bolt thru the hole. Bend tin to shape if you have to. Now heat the bolt by moving the torch head all around the bolt till it is verrrrry hot. Pull tin off. Now try extractor or vice grips. Tin is for heat shield so you don't put heat where you don't want it. Propane should be enough heat. Keep fire ext. handy just in case.
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