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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 11:28 AM
  #21  
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Not saying this applies to you, but a lot of owners that depend upon mechanics to install new headers overlook a very important step, unbeknownst to them, outlined in the service manual. Upon install of the exhaust flange nuts and after riding a few hundred miles, the nuts need to be re-torqued to spec. This second torquing, after a few heat cycles have occurred, will ensure that the flange nuts will stay in place. BTW, loctite is useless due to the temperatures involved and besides, it's not needed if procedure is followed.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 11:57 AM
  #22  
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There is also a specific tightening sequence recommended...

Tighten the bottom nut to 9-18 inch pounds, tighten the top nut to 100-120 inch pounds, tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 inch pounds.



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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 01:40 PM
  #23  
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A few years ago I had a lifter making noise. I tried the Seafoam treatment Ragtop suggested thinking fat chance, but I had bottle of it in the garage so why not give it a try. After going about 50 miles and changing the oil, never heard a noise out of it again. Saved me some down time. Now when I get close to an oil change I dump a little in just to clean things up. Seems to work for me..
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 06:36 PM
  #24  
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Glad you got it figured out, and it was something simple.

When I was putting things together after my engine build I torqued those nuts according to the service manual sequence.
After about a dozen heat cycles, I went and re-torqued them.
About 150 miles later I checked and had to re-torque them again.
After about 300 miles on the build I checked, yup, re-torqued them again.

The other night, with a little over 600 miles on the build I was going over some logs, noticed a plot of VE over VE-New. The plot of my rear cylinder was getting fat.
Checked again, yup, needed to be re-torqued. This time double nutted them.

Now to go re-tune it, again.
 
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