Wobble question
I'm brand new to Harleys and have read about the "wobble" and aftermarket bolt on "cures". Is it advisable to buy one of these devices for a 2016 Road King FHLR? Thank you.
Welcome to the forums- new bike, lovely.
I have never experienced this on either my 1995 FLHTC or my 2009 FLHTC ( same frame as yours, you have better front end, both mine have the batwing fairing).
over 100,000 miles on these bikes. up, down, straight, turning, winds etc
many problems come down to poor vehicle condition & or loading ( 50 pounds of crap in one saddlebag...overloading a rack or tourpak) or owner modifications, such as changing rake and trail thru wheel or suspension mods.
In the case of CHP vs Kawasaki, it was found that the loading of the radio pack and electrics compromised the vehicle
we had one rider on here a few years ago screaming about suing everybody in the world....he had 10 PSI in his front tire
that's my take on it.
a motorcycle is dynamic and is more subject to conditions. the rider needs to manage traction.
one thing to know about the Harley batwing fairing on the FLHT series is that it will lift the front end ( reducing traction) at AIR speeds above about 85 mph...the faster, the more lift. the front end can skip around and a side gust can be interesting.
the fairing is also attached to the forks, so wind action can become "steering input".
this "steering input" would also apply tp the windscreen mounted on the forks- like a road king
( some of the "recurve" windscreen manufacturers claim their product increases downforce
the touring bike is a poor choice for 110 MPH runs, there are other bikes which are designed to do that and more from scratch.
Mike
I have never experienced this on either my 1995 FLHTC or my 2009 FLHTC ( same frame as yours, you have better front end, both mine have the batwing fairing).
over 100,000 miles on these bikes. up, down, straight, turning, winds etc
many problems come down to poor vehicle condition & or loading ( 50 pounds of crap in one saddlebag...overloading a rack or tourpak) or owner modifications, such as changing rake and trail thru wheel or suspension mods.
In the case of CHP vs Kawasaki, it was found that the loading of the radio pack and electrics compromised the vehicle
we had one rider on here a few years ago screaming about suing everybody in the world....he had 10 PSI in his front tire
that's my take on it.
a motorcycle is dynamic and is more subject to conditions. the rider needs to manage traction.
one thing to know about the Harley batwing fairing on the FLHT series is that it will lift the front end ( reducing traction) at AIR speeds above about 85 mph...the faster, the more lift. the front end can skip around and a side gust can be interesting.
the fairing is also attached to the forks, so wind action can become "steering input".
this "steering input" would also apply tp the windscreen mounted on the forks- like a road king
( some of the "recurve" windscreen manufacturers claim their product increases downforce
the touring bike is a poor choice for 110 MPH runs, there are other bikes which are designed to do that and more from scratch.
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Apr 3, 2016 at 06:28 PM.
IMHO it just isn't needed on a new touring chassis pre 2009 maybe. A huge amount of variables also need to be taken into account though on the older bikes that can all cause a wobble. My 1989 flhs wobbles a bit on bumpy corners but it's completely stock and I can live with it. Suspension air pressure and tyre pressures helped a lot to settle the old girl down. My new road glide special handles fantastically straight out the box.
Read my wobble thread to understand what it is. Do you need an add-on? Only you can decide that, but do not allow yourself to be gripped by fear! Understand what it is, ride and enjoy your bike and decide in easy time.
I've been wanting a TT but, last time I was in the shop for service I had them install the high cap oil pan... From what I know, the True Track won't work with any other than stock pans.... Do I have another alternative?
I have a 14 Road King, have ridden it all over the place. Solo, two up, mountains, twisties, triple digit speeds, high winds both head and cross. The bike is awesome. Have no worries, you have a great Road Bike.
I had the dreaded handlebar death wobble when I first bought my 2012 Road Glide. For those of you that have never experienced it you are lucky. To test to see if your bike does it, simply get up to 60 MPH and then let go of the handlebars (keep your hands close to the grips to catch it if needed). My handlebars would start shaking at about 40-45MPH.
The fix was to tighten the steering head bearing a little past the recommended torque. It took about 3 tries to get the correct torque but it finally went away.
The fix was to tighten the steering head bearing a little past the recommended torque. It took about 3 tries to get the correct torque but it finally went away.
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A few weeks ago we were moving shops I was riding my partners 13 ultra limited. At about 55 mph if I let go of the bars for a moment boy did that front end feel like it was gonna rip out. I have felt this before on many bikes while this was the worst wobble I ever felt I had to try it again just to make sure. It was to the point that it was shaking my glasses of my face.






