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replacing front springs-should i replace seals

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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 02:07 PM
  #1  
ChromeBlows's Avatar
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Default replacing front springs-should i replace seals

Replacing front stock fork springs with progressive cartriges on my 2007 electraglide classic. Must I also replace the seals? The stock ones are not leaking. Bike has 75,000 miles!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 02:14 PM
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Do what you will, but I would.

Also change the screws and copper crush gasket below. The oil in the progressive monotube cartridges is only for lube - you don't need the full amount.

A seal tool is a cool machined slide hammer, and I don't know for sure, but mine [2009] is a 41 mm shock. The new ones are 49 mm. 2007 may be 41, but I'd confirm that.

The seals are the easiest part of the job if you're all apart. The screw on the very bottom can be a PITA.

I was gonna mention chrome lowers - then I read your handle...

That was a good laugh for today...

Later
H
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 02:15 PM
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If you are going to take your bike down in duration and for cartridges... why wouldn't you replace the seals. I recommend replacing the seals due to the mileage of the bike.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 02:23 PM
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I am assuming you are just removing the top nut from the tubes and sliding out the old springs and replacing with the new ones? If so, and you have not separated the lowers from the tubes, then you will not need the tube shaft seals replaced. I would at least change the o-ring on the nut and seal on fork tube cap. If you have it down that far, since you already have the forks removed from the bike anyway, now would be the perfect time to replace those seals. Just make sure you use a proper seal driver and not a punch and hammer or some other rube method that will for sure screw up the seals. Also I would advise against first putting the seals in the lower sliders then try to push the tubes in through the seals, this will almost guarantee a torn seal and a leak.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 04:35 PM
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Well I wouldn't say changing the seals is the easiest part of the job.Pullin the calipers off was boring,dismantling the fairing for the 20th time was tedious at best.The fender was the hardest since I had to lie down to bend them damn tabs out of the way to remove 4 nuts!fairing cap,aux lights and other minor dodadds in the way was another 10 minutes.Top nuts took 2 minutes.But the whole thing was pretty friggen easy and uneventful other than the fact that all those little jobs put together take time and if the seals are good for say 100 years,since I haven't a friggen clue about seals,then I'll just save me 2 more tedious time consuming steps.


I do have it all broke down.Except for disasemby of the upper and lower fork tubes.


Good advice on the lower allen screw replacement and washer,will do.


Somehoew I already knew I should prolly change the damn seals but I'm a stubborn ***** and need 50 or 60 people to tell me first.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 04:52 PM
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If you have my luck, you'll re-assemble and the seals will crap out in a few weeks, meaning you need to strip it all down again...lol!

If you've gone that far I'd replace them now, saving you hassle in the long run.

Seals don't last forever and if they are the original fit 75k miles is good going for them.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 05:05 PM
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Changing my lowers to black and installing cartridge as we speak, yes replacing seals. Cheap insurance.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #8  
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I would replace seals and bushings man.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ChromeBlows
Well I wouldn't say changing the seals is the easiest part of the job.Pullin the calipers off was boring,dismantling the fairing for the 20th time was tedious at best.The fender was the hardest since I had to lie down to bend them damn tabs out of the way to remove 4 nuts!fairing cap,aux lights and other minor dodadds in the way was another 10 minutes.Top nuts took 2 minutes.But the whole thing was pretty friggen easy and uneventful other than the fact that all those little jobs put together take time and if the seals are good for say 100 years,since I haven't a friggen clue about seals,then I'll just save me 2 more tedious time consuming steps.


I do have it all broke down.Except for disasemby of the upper and lower fork tubes.


Good advice on the lower allen screw replacement and washer,will do.


Somehoew I already knew I should prolly change the damn seals but I'm a stubborn ***** and need 50 or 60 people to tell me first.
I just did mine, I did the seals and the bushings, came in a HD-Tax boxed x2 .
I had a fun time with the right fork rusted in the top steering head, had to "hammer" it out. And then try to sand the rust out, I did new fluid, chrome lowers, bushing kit ( includes bolts washers etc.)
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 06:02 PM
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Ultra Classic,,That's funny because I'm doing mine also and the right fork leg was rusted in the top clamp also!! Manual says "use a suitable drift and tap to remove" well I had to take the bars loose to gain access and used a deep impact socket and a 2 lb hammer for the "shock aspect" lol. Yeah it came out. Cleaned it up with steel wooland a little emery cloth. Will reinstall with a coat of never seize.
 

Last edited by NAILIT RK; Apr 10, 2016 at 06:06 PM.
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