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08 E.G. Classic Lost Voltage, Engine & Battery Lights ON

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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 09:59 AM
  #1  
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Unhappy 08 E.G. Classic Lost Voltage, Engine & Battery Lights ON

A couple of days ago while doing some local riding I stopped at a red light, after idling a min. or so I noticed the volt meter dropped to 12V and then the engine and battery lights came on. When the light turned green and I took off the volt meter stayed the same and didn't go up at all. I stopped up the road at a gas station, shut her off completely, then after 5 min. or so I cranked it back up, still the same, volt meter 11.5-12V and not moving, engine and battery lights still on. I rode it home about 8 miles away, made it OK, but when I got home the volt meter was still the same and not moving from 11.5V or so, and the two lights were still on. I let it cool off and then plugged the trickle charger to charge the battery back up which I replaced it last fall. I also replaced the orig. stator a few years back at 62,000 miles with the high output alternator like on the Ultra's, but I've never replaced the voltage regulator, so I'm thinking that might be the issue. Any suggestions on where to start would be appreciated. The bike is mostly stock with the orig. 96 engine except for S.E. 255 cams that were put in around 35,000 miles.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by stmcmann
A couple of days ago while doing some local riding I stopped at a red light, after idling a min. or so I noticed the volt meter dropped to 12V and then the engine and battery lights came on. When the light turned green and I took off the volt meter stayed the same and didn't go up at all. I stopped up the road at a gas station, shut her off completely, then after 5 min. or so I cranked it back up, still the same, volt meter 11.5-12V and not moving, engine and battery lights still on. I rode it home about 8 miles away, made it OK, but when I got home the volt meter was still the same and not moving from 11.5V or so, and the two lights were still on. I let it cool off and then plugged the trickle charger to charge the battery back up which I replaced it last fall. I also replaced the orig. stator a few years back at 62,000 miles with the high output alternator like on the Ultra's, but I've never replaced the voltage regulator, so I'm thinking that might be the issue. Any suggestions on where to start would be appreciated. The bike is mostly stock with the orig. 96 engine except for S.E. 255 cams that were put in around 35,000 miles.
Sounds like a bad voltage regulator, but you need to check the stator too.
There are stickeys in this section to troubleshoot the charging system.


It's not charging. You are reading the battery voltage. Determine if it's a stator or regulator problem and replace the bad component(s).
 

Last edited by nhrider1; Jun 2, 2016 at 10:07 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 10:32 AM
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absolutely correct. Voltage regulator is a really easy swap, stator, little more time and effort.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 10:57 AM
  #4  
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Low voltage has a pretty good chance of being the stator.
Neither are particularly hard to test.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 11:00 AM
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I had the same issue with my 08 Ultra. Stator tested fine, battery was fairly new. Replaced voltage regulator and all is good now. Dang this are expensive tho
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 11:03 AM
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Check all your cables to make sure the connections are good and that the cable itself is good.

Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.

One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.

Voltage Regulator Testing

Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 11:08 AM
  #7  
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stators are fun......primary fluid will smell real good. Voltage reg don't pop very often. Do the stator to ground test first with your meter.

 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 12:01 PM
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Just went through the same crap on my 07 RK, you need follow the mentioned procedures to pin point your issue, also their are YT videos on how to meter your VR, that was my issue, I highly suggest buying from cycle electric.

rk classic.
 
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