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There are many debates over this topic. I have tt. There is the political side of the debate, and there is the wb/nb side of things. Myself like others have found the system works fine at our levels. Pro tuners have different opinions, there is nothing like a skilled tuner on a dyno. That being said do you really need it, the answer is no. Is it nice to have/use yes. Is it worth the money, for yes, because I wanted to experiment at different afr's. The nb/wb debate will go on and on. I found it really easy to do the auto tune with the tt. I am at .966 Lambda or 14.2 afr, which is out of the nb range. It's not really rich, I still get above 40mpg, the motor seems to run a bit cooler. Now if I was looking to run at .977/.984 I wouldn't use the tt, the nb's are the best in that range. Would I recommend the tt yes, depending on what you are going to do. If you are going to get it dyno tuned talk to the tuner.
There are many debates over this topic. I have tt. There is the political side of the debate, and there is the wb/nb side of things. Myself like others have found the system works fine at our levels. Pro tuners have different opinions, there is nothing like a skilled tuner on a dyno. That being said do you really need it, the answer is no. Is it nice to have/use yes. Is it worth the money, for yes, because I wanted to experiment at different afr's. The nb/wb debate will go on and on. I found it really easy to do the auto tune with the tt. I am at .966 Lambda or 14.2 afr, which is out of the nb range. It's not really rich, I still get above 40mpg, the motor seems to run a bit cooler. Now if I was looking to run at .977/.984 I wouldn't use the tt, the nb's are the best in that range. Would I recommend the tt yes, depending on what you are going to do. If you are going to get it dyno tuned talk to the tuner.
Got a question, if 14.2 is out of narrowband range then how does the standard ecm adjust/work with nb's with e-10 when stoich is 14.1?
Got a question, if 14.2 is out of narrowband range then how does the standard ecm adjust/work with nb's with e-10 when stoich is 14.1?
O2 sensors reference Lambda which is an absolute value; 1.0 Lambda is always stoich regardless of fuel, AFR on the other hand is simply a relative value based on specific fuel, Lambda X stoich (14.68 for gasoline). For example if you had a measured Lambda of say .89 to establish AFR you would take .89 X 14.68 = 13.06 AFR
I currently have the Power Vision and really like it for what I feel in the seat. Will the Target Tune improve the tune the PV has already created and maintain a good tune in different climates and altitudes. I ride in a lot different temps and elevations throughout the year. Sometimes the bike feels as it does not perform as well as others. Will the TT make corrections so I don't have to run an auto-tune with the PV as often? Thanks.
It all depends on several factors including the year/model of your bike, the specific mods you have done to it, and most importantly the accuracy of the base map you are running and its current state of tune. Compared to the factory O2's Target Tune gives you closed loop fuel control over a broader region of the calibration at a much wider range of AF ratios. Target Tune also has a larger overall window of +/- % of fuel adjustment, you not only have a more dynamic closed loop strategy under normal running conditions, you can also use the TT-Auto Tune application for populating tune corrections back into the base VE tables. This works really well for tuning a wide range of applications. Again, it really comes down to what your combination requires and what you are looking for, many times the factory O2's will work just fine.
As far as what is going on in another section of this site; its unfortunate that some individuals appear to have came to this site for reasons other than to participate as enthusiasts; some of these individuals are not being completely transparent on who they are or their intentions. Simply consider the source of these statements.
For those interested in stopping by our shop for a full demo on how Target Tune works just give us a call. We have Power Vision/Target Tune running on a handful of bikes here including our 2015 107" Road Glide and our 160+Hp 126" Street Glide. We are working on some video demo's that we will be releasing as well. This is really cool stuff. stay tuned...
It all depends on several factors including the year/model of your bike, the specific mods you have done to it, and most importantly the accuracy of the base map you are running and its current state of tune. Compared to the factory O2's Target Tune gives you closed loop fuel control over a broader region of the calibration at a much wider range of AF ratios. Target Tune also has a larger overall window of +/- % of fuel adjustment, you not only have a more dynamic closed loop strategy under normal running conditions, you can also use the TT-Auto Tune application for populating tune corrections back into the base VE tables. This works really well for tuning a wide range of applications. Again, it really comes down to what your combination requires and what you are looking for, many times the factory O2's will work just fine.
As far as what is going on in another section of this site; its unfortunate that some individuals appear to have came to this site for reasons other than to participate as enthusiasts; some of these individuals are not being completely transparent on who they are or their intentions. Simply consider the source of these statements.
For those interested in stopping by our shop for a full demo on how Target Tune works just give us a call. We have Power Vision/Target Tune running on a handful of bikes here including our 2015 107" Road Glide and our 160+Hp 126" Street Glide. We are working on some video demo's that we will be releasing as well. This is really cool stuff. stay tuned...
I sent you an email before I seen this post but I have a 2010 Limited with 103, Ness Big sucker air cleaner, 2-1 exhaust and Power Vision. As far as the map I am running I usually get less than 3% change when I run a basic auto tune with the PV. I know that doesn't necessarily mean its spot on but should be somewhat close.
Before I installed TT, I could watch the AFR jump all over the place as the NB sensors tried to maintain the set ratio. Most often the AFR as read with the WB sensors was higher than specified in my tune. After installing TT, my AFR gauges are fairly steady and the bike runs much smoother. My opinion is that the closed loop WB tuning kicks ***.
I don't have a competent dyno shop anywhere near by, the dyno tuned map I was running felt week.
After installing the TT it felt like a whole new bike. Since I don't have a good dyno shop and like to continually upgrade my engine this was the best option for me and in my opinion well worth it.
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