Power Vision
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: Central Valley CA
Power Vision
Anyone have experience with the auto tune function of the Power Vision, I just installed Woods 777 cams in a 2013 Streetglide, removed the catalyst, installed a high flow air breather, and flashed the ECM with the tune that fuel Moto loaded on the Power Vision and have ridden approx. 75 miles on the bike, The bike has the stock narrow band 02 sensors. I would like to try and use the auto tune function, is this a waste of time, should I just take it down and get it dyno-tuned or will the auto tune work just as well. If it will work just as well how many miles should I put on it during the Auto tune function to get enough information to do its job.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 217
From: Puyallup Wa.
Dyno tune maybe the easiest route.
You can get some decent results with the Auto-Tune. But you're going to have to really spend some time and learning how to tune IMO. With the narrow band sensors and some exhaust systems again in my opinion you really have to know what you're looking at and learn how to manipulate your VEs where you may not be getting good data. If you spend the money on wide-band and it's not something you really want to learn and get into you may be better off just going down and getting the dyno tune.
you're really going to get out of the tune what you learn and put into it. Really
You can get some decent results with the Auto-Tune. But you're going to have to really spend some time and learning how to tune IMO. With the narrow band sensors and some exhaust systems again in my opinion you really have to know what you're looking at and learn how to manipulate your VEs where you may not be getting good data. If you spend the money on wide-band and it's not something you really want to learn and get into you may be better off just going down and getting the dyno tune.
you're really going to get out of the tune what you learn and put into it. Really
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,482
Likes: 239
From: Minnesota
From my experience basic auto tune will help a canned map some. Run short tuning trip of 5-10 miles with various rpm, then reflash. But, a good dyno tune will make noticeable results above that.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 319
Likes: 139
From: Seattle
So long as you have the correct base map loaded for your upgrades then Quick Tune will do a decent job. Dyno tuning is best but only as good as the guy running the dyno. Is the Power Vision what he normally uses to tune? What's your budget? Have the cash for the Dyno? If yes to those answers then the Dyno is your answer. If not, scroll to post #7 in this thread and follow Jamie's advice. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...er-vision.html
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 105
Likes: 7
From: South Jersey
Had a set of Woods 555 cams installed in my 2016 SGS. Matched it with the Jackpot 2 into 1 exhaust, wide band O2 kit, Target Tune, & Powervision.
Love the Auto tune function. Have quite a few and try to when the conditions change... such as when I just had the heck loaded out of the bike on the way to the keys for a week.
Love the Auto tune function. Have quite a few and try to when the conditions change... such as when I just had the heck loaded out of the bike on the way to the keys for a week.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,065
Likes: 11,083
From: San Diego, CA
Anyone have experience with the auto tune function of the Power Vision, I just installed Woods 777 cams in a 2013 Streetglide, removed the catalyst, installed a high flow air breather, and flashed the ECM with the tune that fuel Moto loaded on the Power Vision and have ridden approx. 75 miles on the bike, The bike has the stock narrow band 02 sensors. I would like to try and use the auto tune function, is this a waste of time, should I just take it down and get it dyno-tuned or will the auto tune work just as well. If it will work just as well how many miles should I put on it during the Auto tune function to get enough information to do its job.
To answer your question, yes... give AT a try. Watch the instructional AT videos on FM's site. It's fun to do and interesting to play with. Run a few AT sessions per their directions. If your average cell change gets to within 4%, you're done. See if you like the way the bike runs, if not, have FM tweak the map or go to a reputable dyno operator...
Extraneous info---
I have two EFI HDs, both on my powervision tuner, and both started out with FM maps. They were auto-tuned using basic and AT Pro. Both run really well.. I'm no tuning expert, but I'm learning and like playing with the tuner. I am unaware of a good dyno operator in my area, so the FM map w/ AT works for me...
FM is a good, respected tuner. I have used my PV tuner, with additional licenses, for 3 close friend's bikes. One stock and two Stage I. They are all thrilled with the way their bikes run with the just the FM maps, and don't feel they need an AT session.
Why auto tune? There are always differences between two of the exact same bikes, with exact same mods. Most of these differences will show in VE tables. The AT basic will allow you to dial in a good base map for your bike/mods, to your specific VE values. The key is to start with a really close map from a good tuner. You have that with FM.
I always reload the original FM map to the bike after an AT session. I then compare the FM map, to the map suggested by the AT session, on the computer. I like to see where and what the AT session wants to change. If it wants to make drastic changes outside the range of the narrowband sensors, I don't allow the change or reduce it's percentage of change.
After reviewing, and satisfied with the changes, I'll then load AT session1 tune, for a second AT session if average changes are over 4%.
Remember, the AT isn't really tuning your bike, it's just dialing in a good map made on a similar bike, to your specific bike. If you are using AT basic, it's changes will be limited by the range of the narrow band O2 sensors. When using AT basic, I try to fill the cells within it's range, which will be around the cruise areas and areas normally contained in the closed loop portion of your map tune. I ride my bike conservatively while doing AT basic.
For fun, I bought the AT pro module. If I use the wide band O2 sensors & AT Pro for an tune session, I will then also try to fill the cells for heavy load and hard acceleration, to dial in areas of the map in extreme open loop areas, and within the range of the wide band sensors.
My bikes run well, and get acceptable gas mileage, so I'm happy enough with the way they run, I don't feel the need to roll the dice on an unknown dyno operator.
Enjoy and learn at the same time...!
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 894
Likes: 69
From: Ca
A good Dyno operator is always the best route, but hey... you have a powervision and a Fuelmoto map... might as well play with it....!
To answer your question, yes... give AT a try. Watch the instructional AT videos on FM's site. It's fun to do and interesting to play with. Run a few AT sessions per their directions. If your average cell change gets to within 4%, you're done. See if you like the way the bike runs, if not, have FM tweak the map or go to a reputable dyno operator...
Extraneous info---
I have two EFI HDs, both on my powervision tuner, and both started out with FM maps. They were auto-tuned using basic and AT Pro. Both run really well.. I'm no tuning expert, but I'm learning and like playing with the tuner. I am unaware of a good dyno operator in my area, so the FM map w/ AT works for me...
FM is a good, respected tuner. I have used my PV tuner, with additional licenses, for 3 close friend's bikes. One stock and two Stage I. They are all thrilled with the way their bikes run with the just the FM maps, and don't feel they need an AT session.
Why auto tune? There are always differences between two of the exact same bikes, with exact same mods. Most of these differences will show in VE tables. The AT basic will allow you to dial in a good base map for your bike/mods, to your specific VE values. The key is to start with a really close map from a good tuner. You have that with FM.
I always reload the original FM map to the bike after an AT session. I then compare the FM map, to the map suggested by the AT session, on the computer. I like to see where and what the AT session wants to change. If it wants to make drastic changes outside the range of the narrowband sensors, I don't allow the change or reduce it's percentage of change.
After reviewing, and satisfied with the changes, I'll then load AT session1 tune, for a second AT session if average changes are over 4%.
Remember, the AT isn't really tuning your bike, it's just dialing in a good map made on a similar bike, to your specific bike. If you are using AT basic, it's changes will be limited by the range of the narrow band O2 sensors. When using AT basic, I try to fill the cells within it's range, which will be around the cruise areas and areas normally contained in the closed loop portion of your map tune. I ride my bike conservatively while doing AT basic.
For fun, I bought the AT pro module. If I use the wide band O2 sensors & AT Pro for an tune session, I will then also try to fill the cells for heavy load and hard acceleration, to dial in areas of the map in extreme open loop areas, and within the range of the wide band sensors.
My bikes run well, and get acceptable gas mileage, so I'm happy enough with the way they run, I don't feel the need to roll the dice on an unknown dyno operator.
Enjoy and learn at the same time...!
To answer your question, yes... give AT a try. Watch the instructional AT videos on FM's site. It's fun to do and interesting to play with. Run a few AT sessions per their directions. If your average cell change gets to within 4%, you're done. See if you like the way the bike runs, if not, have FM tweak the map or go to a reputable dyno operator...
Extraneous info---
I have two EFI HDs, both on my powervision tuner, and both started out with FM maps. They were auto-tuned using basic and AT Pro. Both run really well.. I'm no tuning expert, but I'm learning and like playing with the tuner. I am unaware of a good dyno operator in my area, so the FM map w/ AT works for me...
FM is a good, respected tuner. I have used my PV tuner, with additional licenses, for 3 close friend's bikes. One stock and two Stage I. They are all thrilled with the way their bikes run with the just the FM maps, and don't feel they need an AT session.
Why auto tune? There are always differences between two of the exact same bikes, with exact same mods. Most of these differences will show in VE tables. The AT basic will allow you to dial in a good base map for your bike/mods, to your specific VE values. The key is to start with a really close map from a good tuner. You have that with FM.
I always reload the original FM map to the bike after an AT session. I then compare the FM map, to the map suggested by the AT session, on the computer. I like to see where and what the AT session wants to change. If it wants to make drastic changes outside the range of the narrowband sensors, I don't allow the change or reduce it's percentage of change.
After reviewing, and satisfied with the changes, I'll then load AT session1 tune, for a second AT session if average changes are over 4%.
Remember, the AT isn't really tuning your bike, it's just dialing in a good map made on a similar bike, to your specific bike. If you are using AT basic, it's changes will be limited by the range of the narrow band O2 sensors. When using AT basic, I try to fill the cells within it's range, which will be around the cruise areas and areas normally contained in the closed loop portion of your map tune. I ride my bike conservatively while doing AT basic.
For fun, I bought the AT pro module. If I use the wide band O2 sensors & AT Pro for an tune session, I will then also try to fill the cells for heavy load and hard acceleration, to dial in areas of the map in extreme open loop areas, and within the range of the wide band sensors.
My bikes run well, and get acceptable gas mileage, so I'm happy enough with the way they run, I don't feel the need to roll the dice on an unknown dyno operator.
Enjoy and learn at the same time...!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
it isn't as complicated as it sounded.
really, the most complicated part of it is that he reloads his original map so he can compare the original with the suggested changes to see if there is anything obviously hinkey going on....
really, the most complicated part of it is that he reloads his original map so he can compare the original with the suggested changes to see if there is anything obviously hinkey going on....