Buying question -- arm height
I wouldn't be interested in ape hangers with hands up by my eyes. I've ridden Heritage with std 10 or 12" height. Road Kings are a couple inches lower. Street Glides are a couple inches lower than that.
What implications for fatigue, arms falling asleep, strain/ache?
I have a torn shoulder cartilage (S.L.A.P. tear) that is a little sore most of the time, surgery to fix is expensive, hurts lifting too much, but it's liveable.
Test ride a few bikes and see what works.
For what it's worth - when I first got this RK my shoulder and neck started aching after 100-150 miles. The more I rode it the more accustomed I got to it and now really can ride until the tank needs filling or my bladder needs emptying - whichever comes first. At that point I fill up, get a coffee and move my shoulders around enough to get some blood flowing again and I'm good to go.
The best advice is, again, to ride several and see what YOU like best.
For me, I never thought I would like apes. But after riding a friends with them I was astounded how comfortable they were. On my 07 with stock bars my hands occasionally tingle and go numb. Riding with the apes I felt none of that, I assume due to the different angle of my wrists.
You mentioned "expensive" twice , once in conjunction with changing bars. My question to you is "What is your riding comfort worth to you?"
It will limit you to the HD offerings but most dealerships have a rig that you sit on that allows you to try different bars. Might be something to consider looking into.
I had a salesman once tell me half joking and half serious that HD builds a little discomfort into each bike so you have to buy new seats and bars to make them fit you. Of course we are all different but there are ergonomic engineers. You think they would be able to find a combination or adjustability that fits most of us but it seems like we all change something to make it more comfortable and fit us better.
I'm 5'11" / 225 and my Ultra is pretty comfortable stock for me. With maybe 1 or 2 exceptions. I cannot see it being the same for someone say 5'6" and 110.
Ergonomic engineer or not, making one bike comfortable for both would be a tall order.
First, you should have your shoulder scanned (MRI) to determine the amount of tear in your rotator cuff. Call around and get prices...don't just walk-in with your insurance card/cash.
The rotator cuff is comprised of tendons from 4 muscle around the shoulder blade that insert on the shoulder joint and effect movement. The most stable position for the shoulder joint is with your upper arm pointing straight down and close to your body (like when a soldier stands at attention). As you raise your arm/forearm out to the side and up over your head, the shoulder joint becomes increasingly unstable and easier to damage the rotator cuff (or cause further tearing if you already have damage).
As far as riding positions, the best riding position is sitting straight up, shoulders back and square, keeping a slight arch in the small of your back. Your feet/legs should be under you as much as possible keeping a bend in your knees, so you can lift your can off the seat to help absorb road shocks (potholes and such). You should avoid letting your spine absorb these impacts. With regard to best arm position when riding, try to find bars that will leave your hands at shoulder height (no higher!!) or up to 4-5 inches lower than your shoulder joint and maintain a slight bend in your elbows. When riding, grip the bars using your hand and forearm muscles so that your upperarm/elbow can almost just hang in a relaxed position...as such, you will minimize the stress/work on the shoulder joint. Even at this optimal position, your shoulder joint is still at some risk, especially if you already have a rotator cuff tear. Avoid the classic, bad-a$$ looking custom chopper position with arms skyward, legs extended straight out on highway bars, and your back set in a "C"-shaped curve so that you can reach bars/footpegs. While it looks great on the custom-chopper TV shows and when you pull up to the bar, generally speaking, it's a bad back/herniated-ruptured disc waiting to happen, and your not going to get many years in the saddle in that position without medical repercussions. It's simple biomechanics.
Get your rotator cuff scanned asap to determine the extent of the tear. Even a small tear (which can be easily fixed arthroscopically on an outpatient basis....and you can negotiate the price for that repair too) can feel much worse than it actually is, however, stresses on the shoulder (working, riding, falling down) can make the tear worse, and could result in the need for more extensive/expensive surgery.
Good health and ride safe...
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In summary, the bars the MoCo install on new bikes are pretty good IMHO. Every demo bike I've ever ridden, however, has had them set wrong from my point of view, but I'm sure that most of us can get them 'just so' with a little time and juggling. In almost 50 years of riding I have only seldom actually felt the need to change bars on a bike.
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