Just installed the Evolution Industries 49 Tooth clutch in my Ultra, not a big fan of ATF, as that is what they recommend to run in their clutches. I see there is a "Super F atf fluid, not sure if anyone has tried that or are any of you running the Evolution Industries clutch with some other type of fluid and having success?? I called Evolution Industries,and they were adamant about the regular old type F atf in their clutches, but I also know on other things some companies are conservative and stick to a certain product just because?? Thoughts??

 

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" I called Evolution Industries,and they were adamant about the regular old type F atf in their clutches "

They generally rec all aft because it has shown in many cases to provide better clutch plate release & quieter shifting with less clunk etc.

But the perf clutch mfg fell 1 step short of stating you must use ATF (not std HD prim case oil) or it will cause clutch operation issues & or damage voiding the clutch warranty either.

So with that in mind as far as i am aware there should be no reason HD specific prim case oil 'thats specifically designed & formulated for use in an HD prim case with a wet clutch and compensator should not harm & or damage your perf clutch.

With that said since your not a fan of running only ATF in the prim case & it's easy & fairly inexpensive to change the prim case oil there are a few options i rec you can try which to name a few are:

1) You could 1st try an HD specific prim case oil of your choice (NO ATF) to see how that does with the new perf clutch & if this seems to work good to your liking stick with this.

If that seems to work good / to your liking then stick with it, if not go to rec-2.

2) Since your not a fan of 100% ATF in prim case you could then try running a 50/50 mix of ATF & HD specific prim oil of your choice that may be a bit better more robust oil mixture to run in the primary case then ATF alone is easing your mind a bit to see how that works out .

If this seems to work good / to your liking then stick with it,if not go to rec-3.

3) If neither of the above work to your liking then as a last resort try the 100% ATF in the prim case that's not to your liking just to see how it works out.

If this seems to work significantly better then the rec's 1 & or 2 stick with this.

Note-1: I only rec sticking with option 3 if 100% ATF in prim case in fact works so much better then rec's 1 & 3 it's hands down the best choice from an operational & rideability standpoint.

But the problem with that is you'd have to trust the 100% ATF your not a fan of running in your HD prim case wont in fact lead to any premature wear & or premature failure of any components associated with & or lubed by the prim case oil 40-50-60-70k miles down the road that's a choice only you could make @ that point .

Note-2: I also rec running each of the 3 rec prim case oil tests a min of 3,500-4k miles (or more) to ensure you have enough miles on the each of the 3 diff type prim oil rec's to know they can go the distance without degradation in clutch/shifting perf etc.

Note-3: HD recs 10k mile prim case oil srv'c/oil change,i rec 5k mile prim case oil change due to issues / premature component failures (IPB/Compensators/etc) we have seen posted here mult times in HDForums in recent past ,cleaner oil with less contmination can help extend srv'c of the componetns in the prim case.

@ 10k miles the prime case oil looks horrible with a lot of contam in it and on drain plug too,prim case oil 2 10k miles may in fact test ok at a certified test lab with 10k miles on it.

But for low cost & ease of changing prim case oil why not change @ 5k miles to help extend srvc life of all componenet lubed in prim case always having cleaner oil with less contam in the prim case @ all times.

(Pirm case oil still looks pretty dirty @ 5k miles but looks to have a bit less contam in the oil & bit less contam on the drain plug too @5 miles vs 10k miles)

Same goes for the 6spd trans,HD recs 20k miles oil srvc ,i rec 10k miles or 1yr,which ever comes 1st due to mult cases of premature failure of Trans bearings etc being reported here in HDForums in recent past when having cleaner oil that have less contamination in it should help extend srv'c of the the components in the unit.

Lastly HD's rec's 5k motor oil & filter change which is IMHO the only realistic real world rec HD made when using a quality full syn motorcycle specifiic motor oil with recpect to oil related maint rec's vs whats really happening with premature failures of prim & trans componenes in the recent past.

I rec 4k mile mile motor oil & oil change schd because no matter whats mfg's oil i have tried on my HD i notice/feel/hear a noticeable diff in the perf of the oil in my HD when it get's approx 3k-3,500miles which is why max @ 4k miles before changing the motor oil & filter why i choose to not go the extra 1k miles to 5k miles like HD recs'.

And again,if the motor oil was tested @4k or 5k miles it may still show its ok for a bit more use /miles , but even at 4k miles the oil looks dirty and enegine perf is noticeably diff to me so it's outta there @ 4k miles.

But!, if i was to go on a long trip/tour 5,500-6k miles or so i'd start out with a very high quality full syn bike oil and run that the full trip and change the motor oil & filter when i got home because totays top of the line syn bike can handle it without causing any undue wear or mech issues esp only 1x or a few times over the motors entire srv'c life .

Same goes for prim case oil i rec changing @ 5k miles going a bit further to 6k miles or so on a pre-planed long tour.

Good luck.

Scott

 

Try Mobil 1 syn ATF mixed with 3 ounces of Lubeguard highly friction modified ATF supplement.

Nothing else I've tried even comes close.

(disclaimer... I have the stock clutch in my Limited Low)

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I have this clutch on just shy of 30k miles. Only run drag specialties primary oil. I am have less HP/TQ than some but more than most. Never an issue. Never mind the zip tie on the shift lever. It had stripped in Utah and I rode back home like that as it kept vibrating off and I got tired of checking on it. I switched it out afte the photo.

 

Also. I only add 1 quart at fluid change.

 

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If we are talking TC primary case it get's 38oz prim oil for std prim oil change srv'c and 42oz when you have the outter prim case off for mech inspection & or repair so your rec of only 32oz / 1qt is running it low.

Is the reason your running the prim case oil lvl 6oz lower then Hd states is required for std prim case oil change for TC an attempt to reduce drag on clutch plates for better release / quieter less clunky shifting and more ease of finding neutral too?

With all the issues HD has been having in recent past with compensators along with IPB's,clutch shaft bearings etc failing prematurely with 1 of the reasons stated for early comp failures supposedly being a lack of proper / enough oiling you would think purposely running prim case oil lvl 6oz lower then rec by HD would only add to lack of oiling issues within the prim case.

Happy Motoring.

Scott

 

Wscot has good idea except I wouldn't test them that long. 500-1000 miles is good to be able to see if it has wear particles in it. I did a bunch of test last year. Regular trans fluid is burnt in 200 miles, with that said if using atf at least use synthetic. Sometimes I'll stick atf in just to clean it, then dump it real soon. Amsoil primary is the best I've used so far to keep wear down and shifts almost as good as atf.

PS: early years called for 32ounces, I have checked puts it on the line.

 

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STOP TEMPTING ME SO MUCH!!/LOL!!

I dont have any problem finding neutral hot or cold but none the less am still getting tired of always hearing & feeling the loud heavy clunk @ every shift up or down thats supposedly a NON ISSUE not damaging HD's 6 spd trans but none the less i just don't like it.

Geesh,every time i read your posts having great results thus far with your ATF brew is really making me want to try what your rec!/LOL!!

But 1st I have a couple question before i get into this which are:

1) Do you add the 3-0z fric mod additive on top of the std 38oz prim case refill with M1 ATF or do you refill with 35oz M1 ATF along with 3oz fric mod additive?

2) Exactly which M1 ATF (PT# from container?) do you use,1 for newer gm,ford,or imports or the version for older gen auto trans?

But the 4.5 decades under my belt knowing friction modifiers can in fact in some cases lead to premature clutch slip is stopping me from doing this thus far .

Thats because i would be purposely adding an oil suppliment high / rich in friction mods to beef up the ATF which is a good idea as far as improving ATF's ability to take more abuse in a couple respects while at the same time can possibly (bot not always!) lead to premature clutch slip.

I would think stock clutch with SE Hvy Dty clutch spring would be less liable to slip due to more clamping force with hvy dty clutch spring even with a modded motor with increased hp/trq output.

Same go's for aftermarket perf clutch with hvy dty diahpram type spring & or when running an aftermarket perf clutch setup running the 5-6 coil spring setup with the bikes mostly ridden 1 up with bags not loaded so less wt for the clutch with hvy dty clutch spring & or springs to deal with.

But where the additional fric mod additive could be more of an issue is when running stock clutch plates & weaker stock diaphram clutch spring on bikes that have max stag 1 setup (esp with tuner allowing more timing) with good breathing aftermarket slipons & pipes along with stock or aftermarket AC housing that has a better breathing cleanable K&N style / design air filter element too.

Then add to that maybe being ridden more aggressively day to day that's also ridden mostly 2up with bags loaded putting more load on clutch & spring in general is where clutch could slip with additional fric mods in prim case.

Thats because the case directly above is putting significantly more wt / load on the stock clutch that's also got a weaker stock diaphram clutch spring along with sig more fric mods to deal with too.

Happy Motoring!

Scott

 

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OH ,Ok,i was reff more recent (2009 & up) TC's w-6spd so was he reff earlier then 2009 TC's w-6spd trans?

I neglected to mention 1 of the reasons i rec the mileage i did on the tests of diff prim oil mixes in his bike is not only
to get enough miles on it to see if it starts to act diff like making more noise due to visc sheer but also to get some use out of it before dumping it as to not waste it too.

But if he dosen't care about getting his money's close to his money worth's out of the 3 prim oil mixes i rec he try / test then like to suggested i guess he could back off on the mileage rec quite a bit and accomplish the same thing.

Scott

 

I'm not a mechanic. 1 quart works for me and was recommended by a mechanic S&S works pretty close with. Also I think the reason the bearings are going out may have more to due with the over tension on the chain than fluid being slung around by the chain and is the reason I have the baker tension system installed. Some folks with bigger motors went to dry system or even run less fluid than i do. I didn't feel comfortable running less than a quart.