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wsoctt: The primary oil is a separate issue from the engine oil. I drain and put in 38 oz at each change. And yes there is old oil in the primary. But just as in the engine it is of no significance. What one is doing is giving a fresh shot of inhibitors, neutralizers and other additives. Harley engineers know more than all of us and they set the standard for acceptability to maintain the warrantee so their 5K oil change by just draining and replacing is all that it takes. Period.
I call it like I see it. That has served me well from the streets to the board room. If you get butt hurt over it or are one of the sensitive types just put me on ignore and your problem is over.
wsoctt: The primary oil is a separate issue from the engine oil. I drain and put in 38 oz at each change. And yes there is old oil in the primary. But just as in the engine it is of no significance. What one is doing is giving a fresh shot of inhibitors, neutralizers and other additives. Harley engineers know more than all of us and they set the standard for acceptability to maintain the warrantee so their 5K oil change by just draining and replacing is all that it takes. Period.
I call it like I see it. That has served me well from the streets to the board room. If you get butt hurt over it or are one of the sensitive types just put me on ignore and your problem is over.
I won't arguewhat color used oil should be or what gets re-furbished at a change but peryour previous post IF the dry engine oil capacity is 4 quarts and you stateyou put 3 quarts in your many twinkie motors at oil change I think my Board memberswould have some questions on your math calculations.
I have found if I change my oil after a long trip (over 100 miles), drop the drain right when I get home, and leave it to drain for a couple hours, I almost always have no residual oil in it. If the oils is only 'Warm" and not hot, more stays in the engine. Just my experiences.
i'm with lh4x4. if you like using a scavenger system, and it makes you feel better, then go for it. just don't fall for the over-hype sales.
the total capacity for my bike is 4 qts. if a qt was left behind, then it would only take 3 qts to do a total refill. as it is, I put 3.5 qts in, and that gets me at the middle of the hash marks. the other half qt would put me right at the top (which gives you that great blowby when you run hard).
The process of engine oil darkening is normal and means that the detergents are doing their job and putting contaminants into suspension so that they do not turn into sludge in the motor and can be removed with normal oil changes. All good when this happens at a "normal" rate.
If yours is turning black at a rate much faster than it used to or should then there is probably something else going on. Carbon and contaminants are the normal byproduct of combustion, but their entry into the oil can be increased by a ring problem or other mechanical issue. The rate of contaminant production can also be changed by incomplete combustion, bad tune, etc. Increased heat will increase the problem and can be due to lean conditions etc.
Check your plugs, do a compression check, maybe tune if FI or Carb issue. Good luck with it.
It's illustrative to see a person justify their purchase of something with the marketing materials provided by the company which took their money.
OP has a 14-year-old bike that's averaged 2,300 miles a year. The soot's from sitting for extended periods, going on short rides, and sitting again. OP's probably not going on extended rides which burn off all the contaminants.
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