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brake fluid leak

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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 06:54 PM
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Default brake fluid leak

Ugh... So my last bike had constant leaks around the master cylinder, but when I got the new Limited I thought they must have finally got the seals figured out... I guess not. Now in all fairness, I just had my bars replaced so I'm thinking the some fluid worked its way around the seal while the clutch and brake were off the bars, because BOTH were leaking today. Luckily I caught it before it landed on the paint, or at least that I know of. And apparently the fluid can't be changes out for something less corrosive. I had them actually call the MOCO and ask because I was so sick of worrying about the paint on my last bike.

Anybody know of a good, lasting fix for this? Bike is a '15 Limited.

I pulled the lids and cleaned the lids and seals then reinstalled, and I'll take it in on Monday to get the screws torqued since I don't have a small enough torque wrench. I know that over tightening is worse then under tightening, so I might as well have them do it right. Damn Dot4!
 
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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 07:43 PM
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The torque is something like 8 in. lbs. Barely compressing the gasket/seal.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jlasoftail
Ugh... So my last bike had constant leaks around the master cylinder, but when I got the new Limited I thought they must have finally got the seals figured out... I guess not. Now in all fairness, I just had my bars replaced so I'm thinking the some fluid worked its way around the seal while the clutch and brake were off the bars, because BOTH were leaking today. Luckily I caught it before it landed on the paint, or at least that I know of. And apparently the fluid can't be changes out for something less corrosive. I had them actually call the MOCO and ask because I was so sick of worrying about the paint on my last bike.

Anybody know of a good, lasting fix for this? Bike is a '15 Limited.

I pulled the lids and cleaned the lids and seals then reinstalled, and I'll take it in on Monday to get the screws torqued since I don't have a small enough torque wrench. I know that over tightening is worse then under tightening, so I might as well have them do it right. Damn Dot4!
Many use the 2 finger torque wrench on the covers, it works and it's free. New gasket or cover gasket, clean surface, install screws and tighten using only or thumb and index finger. Done.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 09:47 PM
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Thanks. I'll back them off an try that
 
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Old Sep 10, 2016 | 09:53 PM
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I had the problem on my 10 Street Glide constantly no matter what I did or how many superseded Master cylinder covers and gaskets I replaced. Then I bought a precision. albeit expensive, torque screw driver. Harley changed the torque spec to 6 inch pounds and you would be surprised at how much that actually feels like when you have the tool to do it right. Remove cover and gasket, wash cover and gasket with hot soapy dawn and dry well. Wipe off lip of master cylinder reservoir with alcohol and torque new cover to 6 inch pounds. No more leaks on any of the bikes I've done since for myself and others. I have to disagree with two finger method. No disrespect intended to the OP on that one. I was just shocked that 6 inch pounds is actually more than I ever expected. When that DOT 4 weeps around the cover even slightly, little almost unnoticeable droplets of the fluid gets blown back on the tank etc when in the wind. I've seen many a damaged tank and the owners have no clue that those little etched dots and streaks all over their tank and saddle bag tops in some cases, is due to Dot 4 brake fluid eating into the paint.
 

Last edited by Rickr01; Sep 10, 2016 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2016 | 01:48 PM
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So far so good! I had the proper torque set, and no leaks or seeping so far. looks like it was just some fluid that sloshed around when the bars were getting changes. And no damage to the paint! I caught it just on time
 
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 08:20 AM
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Chances are there was fluid trapped between the cap and gasket, and thats what you may have seen seeping?? Been there done that. Unless they have changed the gasket style, there use to be a vent hole in the seal and use to be in the rear of the cap (not facing forward). I put the cap in backwards years ago and it use to seep.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 01:09 PM
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On the handlebars, good seal placement is CRITICAL, snug the cover down follows that.
Before I take that cover off, I make sure the reservoir is perfectly level, by how I park the bike and turn the bars. Then, when ready, I take great care to get the gasket RIGHT, then snug it down. I have never used a torque wrench on those screws, just driver snug by hand has always served me fine.
The rear reservoir is easier, with the bike on my lift or dolly, if the bike is level, the reservoir is level.
Hey, those little gaskets can be funky. If in the garage, good lighting is nice. Take your time with them. They are not like the master cylinders on cars from years gone by, unfortunately.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 08:01 PM
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Best way I've found is to tighten it down to just when the gasket starts to bulge and then back it off a hair. Just went thru this same thing on a brand new SGS. Started happening right after the 1000 mile service.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 08:17 PM
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Shortly after I had the clutch recall performed, I noticed the reservoir was leaking and the paint had already started to bubble. I re-tightened the cover and got the leak to stop. Fast forward to the 15K service and shortly before the warranty expired, I got them to change the reservoir assembly under warranty. Now, less than 5K later and with the warranty expired, the reservoir is leaking and the paint is starting to bubble. I give up.
 
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