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The 9/16 bolt is right at it's limit at 175... Why torque it to 200?
Does the procedure quiet the knock or is it simply to keep the bolt from coming loose?
Just curious..
I've played with the comps a little and only run them at 145 but that's without the patch and everything clean. They don't come loose..
It doesn't happen on the older comps as much. The SE T70... all the time for some reason.
It's the first thing I would check if you're getting noise. The bolt backs out which causes the knock on startup and some vibration depending on how bad it's loose.
If the comp is new, it's probably just the bolt. Helps to have a real torque wrench that goes to 250.
Not trying to use a 150 and push it further etc, although that works sometimes. Never heard of anyone breaking the T70. It's pretty hearty.
Also, I guess that 190-200 makes up for that 10-20% variance in crappy torque wrenches that some people have. I dunno, whatever the reason, that number just works.
It doesn't happen on the older comps as much. The SE T70... all the time for some reason.
It's the first thing I would check if you're getting noise. The bolt backs out which causes the knock on startup and some vibration depending on how bad it's loose.
If the comp is new, it's probably just the bolt. Helps to have a real torque wrench that goes to 250.
Not trying to use a 150 and push it further etc, although that works sometimes. Never heard of anyone breaking the T70. It's pretty hearty.
Also, I guess that 190-200 makes up for that 10-20% variance in crappy torque wrenches that some people have. I dunno, whatever the reason, that number just works.
So you are really talking about the 03-06 fiasco when they changes to roller left side.. One of the issues was that the primary cranks side stackup was changed and the nut could bottom out of the crank before clamping the stack-up.. I would guess that going from 165 to 200 would fix the problem...
first of all it came with 5 spring plates. I used a 3/4 drive torque wrench set at 180 Cant believe bolt is loose. No screech when starting
If you got the late one and installed the plastic tray, yeah they still can rattle a little.. I suspect that part of it is because the replaced the plastic washer with a needle bearing. If you look at the new comp that goes on the M8, it's back to plastic (something newer than PEEK).. I've upped to then newer comp and I get a rattle when the motor is cold mainly due to a rough idle (motor built and Tmax give a rough idle when cold. ) Other than that, it's been dead quiet.
One thing you can do is if you still have the old comp. take the old small spring and add it to the small one going the same direction... Like this <<.. Not like this.. <>
If you got the late one and installed the plastic tray, yeah they still can rattle a little.. I suspect that part of it is because the replaced the plastic washer with a needle bearing. If you look at the new comp that goes on the M8, it's back to plastic (something newer than PEEK).. I've upped to then newer comp and I get a rattle when the motor is cold mainly due to a rough idle (motor built and Tmax give a rough idle when cold. ) Other than that, it's been dead quiet.
One thing you can do is if you still have the old comp. take the old small spring and add it to the small one going the same direction... Like this <<.. Not like this.. <>
When you say "upped to the newer comp", are you referring to the M8 comp? Have considered upping mine if it is compatible.
When you say "upped to the newer comp", are you referring to the M8 comp? Have considered upping mine if it is compatible.
Sorry.. New comp was the SE A version that uses the Torx.. I'd be interested whether M8 comp fits too. It's hard to say,, Belleville springs are the same as SE as is the Torx.. If the splines are the same the only difference might be in the alignment.. Don't know.. I checked 2017 dynas and they seem to be using the SE A versioned comp.. I figured if it was a new fix they would have added them to all the bikes.. Of course they may only be using old stock on the non M8s motors..
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