This will be sorta long, but my questions are below the Jagg link. I tried searching, but came up with nothing. I am trying to hussle and get this done before the weekend to have time to check for leaks, etc. I am leaving out on a trip on the 21st. So if I need to order parts overnight, I will have to do it fairly early tomorrow. I was planning to call Jagg first thing in the morning, but was hoping someone had some insight into this issue.

I'm in the process of installing a Jagg 751-FP2400 oil cooler on my 2009 FLHTCU. This is the fan assisted model that raises the voltage regulator. While removing the voltage regulator I noticed the 2 pin output wiring was a bit tight but still had room to raise the regulator, or so I thought. I finished everything up to the stage of reinstalling the voltage regulator and hit a brick wall.... The 2 pin output wiring will extend to maybe 1/2" above the relocation mounting bracket that came with the Jagg. See pictures on the link to Jagg's website (below) if you need help visualizing what I mean. The portion of this cable is where it splits out to the O2 sensor, crank position sensor, and then this output cable. Runs from under the seat, down the right side frame rail and then under the front lower engine mount, clips to bottom of front right downtube, then comes up. There is no slack to pull out of it, anywhere. I checked my service manual and while there is no images showing how it should come up from the frame rail clips, it seems it is correct judging by the wire clip attached to the bottom of the downtube. The service manual does read "route main harness conduit inboard of front engine mounting bracket. Install anchor capturing main harness conduit in lower frame tube." This would lead me to believe it should run above the front lower engine mount rather than under before coming up, except for the anchor part. I'm attaching a picture of where the cable/connector ends up. If I pull it tight, I get maybe 1/2" higher than the picture, at best.

http://www.jagg.com/751-FP2400.html

Can anyone confirm the routing of the main harness carrying the voltage regulator output. Is it above or below the front lower engine mount? I have access (45min drive) to my dad's 2011 FLHTK, but it would be tomorrow evening before I could check the wire routing. Little late to get parts overnighted.

Is it possible to buy a 4-6" extension for the Voltage Regulator output with the 2-place AMP (Tyco) connectors? This would need to be male on one end and female on the other, preferably rubber booted that can lock.

If buying a pre-made extension is not an option, does anyone know the particular part numbers for the AMP connectors used on the voltage regulator. Would need both male and female. Wire, crimping (or soldering), sealing, etc is not an issue. I searched but could not find the particular part # for what matches the connectors. I would imagine #6 stranded would be ideal for the extension, but have a feeling #8 or #10 is the largest wire that connector would handle.

If finding the connectors is not an option, does anyone know what length the wire leads are for the Cycle Electric Inc. CE-607 or CE-608? http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/
I could get away with either with the Jagg I would imagine since the bracket already raises the regulator. I am leaning towards the CE-608 and then using a cutoff wheel to cut the regulator bracket off the Jagg mount. Anyone personally used the CE-608 and can comment on wire lengths? I was going to call their customer support line after I called Jagg, depending on Jagg's response to the issue.

If none of the above is an option for my issue and re-routing the cable above the front lower engine mount doesn't get the length I need, then i guess splicing in an extension would be my only option to keep the oil cooler. Not really wanting to do that, but it would not be the first time I have had to splice chassis wiring..... Just not a fan of having soldered and sealed connections that low on the frame, exposed. Anyone attempted this with success?

That's pretty much it. The 3 pin stator connection has plenty of slack to relocate higher, just not the 2 pin VR output.

Thanks for any help.

 

Cliff notes edition; JAGG 751-FP2400 and Cycle Electric Inc. CE-608 regulator WILL NOT WORK TOGETHER.

I wasted $200 total to overnight a cycle electric inc. ce-608 regulator after being assured several times by karl/carl of CEI on the phone that it would work for my application, I am back to square one. Regulator overlaps with the fan a good 1/2" if not 1". Hard to tell since i can't get either even close to mounting when the other is in there. Tried loosely mounting the regulator and tilting it out to slip the fan onto the stock regulator studs with no success. It also interferes with the temperature switch contacts. It is on a drop bracket that could possibly be abandoned and new holes drilled into the cross member on frame and re-mounted higher. But i am unsure if the fender would make contact on full compression of the forks. Cables would reach, however. Either way, not worth the trouble and headache of modifying things. This ce-608 is going back to someone, one way or another. I will give karl/carl from cei credit for being a hell of a salesman.... Unfortunately after i wasted time trying everything to fit, cei must have closed up shop for friday as the phone only rang. No vm and no email.

I should have just listened to Marv from Jagg rather than trying the "easy" way and believing cycle electric....

Marv said to slit the outer jacket and re-route the regulator output harness to gain 2.5". Which looks like my only option unless I ditch this oil cooler, which i am starting to lean that direction.... Hopefully my original measurement of needing roughly 3" is wrong. Otherwise, i will be attempting to borrow my dad's 2011 FLHTK for my trip.

 

Personally, I'd just cut and splice. I would NOT solder. I'd use weather proof krimp on connectors and heat shrink tubing. Done right it will be a clean, tight, weatherproof connection that will be virtually unnoticeable.

 

I'm curious why you would prefer crimp connectors over soldering? A good solder joint with sealant and heat shrink is preferred in my line of work. Occasionally will wrap with loctite self fusing tape, DEI quick fix tape, or 3m super 88 depending on application. Having the correct soldering iron and solder for the job helps also.

But for this particular project, I was able to avoid splicing. I split the heat shield cover and seperated everything on the main harness. I wrapped the wires with DEI quick fix tape for environmental protection and over-wraped the exposed voltage regulator harness with DEI protect-a-sleeve for heat. I routed it above the front lower engine mount rather than under. Following Marv with Jagg's details, it barely reached. Had to use needle nose pliers and a little dielectric grease for lube, but it connected and bolted down. Had maybe 1/8" to spare at best. Zip tied the harness up where it had a little gap off the case and exhaust, called it good. Checked out everything with meter.

No leaks noticed on the cooler adapter or hoses and seems to work well. Not sure the wiring harness "fun" was worth it for the fan assisted model. Running the cooler thermostat from wards parts werks. If I had to do over again I would just do wards parts works fans on the jugs and the jagg non fan model with the no-tstat adapter.

 

A proper solder joint is a good mechanical and electrical connection. But, the act of heating the wires weakens the metal. Then the solder connection forms a very rigid joint. The weakened wire, where it meets the joint, forms a stress point that can be susceptible to breaking.
Crimp connectors also form a good electrical and mechanical connection without heating/weakening the metal. Also, the plastic sleeve insulates and gives stress relief to the joint without a hot iron or messy tape.
If you pay attention the only things soldered in a vehicle are circuit board components. Everything else is crimped.
And, for the record, I learned to solder, and do it well, 45 years ago and own plenty of good equipment.