Engine Build?Crate ?????

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Oct 24, 2016 | 07:38 AM

#11

Blue Tick

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From: Tomball, Tx.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkguitar

- um sounds like that is what you have already.

a stage 1 will be the best bang for buck power improvement and will retain reliability and be close in MPG- you will also have a machine which is easily serviced if away from home on a trip as there are no "mysteries" for the guy who is trying to fix it.

Mike

Already have a stage 1. I am about to dump the Rush exhaust system though for something else, what I'm not sure. Maybe I should leave well enough alone, I just like to play around with stuff from time to time.

Oct 24, 2016 | 09:03 AM

#12

OldPhat

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From: Sparks Nevada

Why not just do a cam change to your 2016 Road Glide Ultra ? ?

Oct 24, 2016 | 10:08 AM

#13

Blue Tick

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From: Tomball, Tx.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldPhat

Why not just do a cam change to your 2016 Road Glide Ultra ? ?

I have considered that as well. Are the gains for just a cam swap worth the $$$ and time putting them in? My main goal with the 107 or the complete swap would be the increase in HP and TQ. For what I'm looking at several dyno runs are showing increases up to 110ish HP and around 120ish TQ versus the standard 80ish HP and 90ish TQ.

Oct 24, 2016 | 11:09 AM

#14

hd_rolling

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From: Grays Creek, NC

You already have the liquid cooled engine, since you spent the money on it I wouldn't replace it with a non liquid crate engine. If you have the money for a crate engine I'd spend it on building your liquid cooled to a 117, if your thinking of a big crate engine You probably won't be happy with a 107. And it's only a matter of time before the 117 wouldn't be enough, at least not if you really like to tinker.

My bike started as a 96", than I added cams. From there to a 106 BB kit with stage 2 heads. Then to a 120", then cams. Now I'm looking at the 124 BB kit for my 120, it will never end.

It's your bike, your money. Go as big as you can afford the first time, that should keep you happy a little longer until the next upgrade. Some won't understand.

Oct 24, 2016 | 05:35 PM

#15

Jon_S412

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From: McHenry

^^^^^Lol so true!! 😁😁 I guess the big question is what's your price range on a motor build? A good set of woods 222 cams would make a big improvement with a good exhaust and tune. How long will that keep you happy though? lol I've put about 3k miles on my motor so far with zero issues and it gets about 40mpg on country roads if I'm not hammering on.It's all about getting the right parts that match well together with someone that can dial your bike in right!

Oct 24, 2016 | 07:31 PM

#16

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From: Tomball, Tx.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon_S412

I've got 2 indy's that I really trust their word and a dyno guy that knows his business. All 3 are giving pretty close to the same info. Cams, lifters, adjustable pushroads, etc. will push the 100hp mark and 110tq marks pretty easily. My dyno guy says what he see's the best performance with exhaust wise is the Dragos 2, 2-1 or 2-1-2 he suggests the Fullsac header since it's a stepped header.

Oct 24, 2016 | 09:14 PM

#17

hd_rolling

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From: Grays Creek, NC

If your just looking to get into the 100 hp/tq range you should be able to do that easily with you 103?

Oct 24, 2016 | 09:43 PM

#18

Blue Tick

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From: Tomball, Tx.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hd_rolling

If your just looking to get into the 100 hp/tq range you should be able to do that easily with you 103?

Wellllllllll.......I never said that. Was just relaying what I info I have been given from some folks I trust. I really think I'm going to just end up doing the FM 107 kit. I've had many conversations with them on things from parts selection to what fuel mileage I should see. Everything they've said and what I've seen here and on dyno sheets just confirms the way I should go. I thought about doing the 117 like you had mentioned, but I don't have an extra case to split and build from and I'm too cheap to buy another.