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Removing primary case - question

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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 04:40 PM
  #71  
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So, what's involved with getting the Mainshaft out? Can't get that race off.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:19 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Road Star
So, what's involved with getting the Mainshaft out? Can't get that race off.
The race has to some off to remove the main shaft. Post #32 is the Baker video that shows how to bump the main shaft toward the left side of the bike to create the gap between the race you need to fit the horse shoe plate behind the race and pull it off. JMHO but I don't believe that is necessary. I have posted a picture of the Dremel tool and the notch you need to cut in the race to break it and you can pull it off with your fingers.

You just need to cut that notch and insert a chisel into the notch and strike the chisel; the race is very brittle and will snap and pull off easily. Post a picture of the notch you have cut; let's take a look. The race has to come off and, at this point, you only have two options; the Baker shaft bump or the Dremel method. The Dremel method is quite common and had been done many times; your best bet at this point.

EDIT: There is a third option but also requires use of Dremel tool. Cut two notches, about half way through the race 180* apart; exactly opposite from each other; like 3:00 and 9:00. Using a split puller, use those two notches for the split puller to grab the race and pull it off.

However, since you have to use a Dremel tool, might as well go with the first Dremel option; faster and doesn't require a puller. Just be careful with the Dremel tool; use a metal cutting blade the tool will eat through the race pretty quick, so use a light hand and take your time. The notch should be at a 45* angle as shown the previously posted photo. Both Dremel methods are shown in my post #64.
 

Last edited by djl; Nov 6, 2016 at 09:51 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 10:29 AM
  #73  
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Thanks djl. Got it removed, snapped, just like you said it would.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 10:36 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Road Star
Thanks djl. Got it removed, snapped, just like you said it would.
Progress! Onward and upward! Now, removing that main shaft/fifth gear seal; challenging. Get a small flat blade screw driver, wedge it into the seal and work your way around trying to pry it out. You will swear that it will never come out but it will. Once you see a little movement, concentrate on both sides of that area.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 11:10 AM
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Got it all together, and it won't start, just getting a loud click from the starter solenoid. Tried rocking it back and forth in gear. Got a battery tender on it now.

We'll, the battery tender got the battery charged up enough to start. But, it still leaks. Must be the inner primary seal. I can see it running down the case, when I look under the bike.
 

Last edited by Road Star; Nov 6, 2016 at 11:43 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 11:40 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Road Star
Got it all together, and it won't start, just getting a loud click from the starter solenoid. Tried rocking it back and forth in gear. Got a battery tender on it now.
Any ideas?
Well done for getting this far. There are plenty of 'click' threads in here, which between them should help you solve that, just use Advanced Search for 'click' in titles, plus D1gger's Sticky above.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 12:44 PM
  #77  
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How far does the race go onto the trans main shaft? just up far enough so you can get the tool on to remove it?

Going to put a stock bearing, race and seal, and try that.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 01:40 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Road Star
How far does the race go onto the trans main shaft? just up far enough so you can get the tool on to remove it?

Going to put a stock bearing, race and seal, and try that.
The gap between the IPB race and the main shaft/5th gear seal should not be more than .110", otherwise the seal will not seat squarely on the main shaft. If you did not use the stock bearing, race and seal, what did you use?

You must also wrap the main shaft splines with some painters tape or something similar as the splines are very sharp and it is very easy to nick the main shaft seal when slipping the inner primary case back into place. Also pay attention to how the IPB seal is installed; it is directional. The seal is clearly inscribed with "Oil This Side" and should be so installed.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 02:12 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by djl
The gap between the IPB race and the main shaft/5th gear seal should not be more than .110", otherwise the seal will not seat squarely on the main shaft. If you did not use the stock bearing, race and seal, what did you use?

The seal is clearly inscribed with "Oil This Side" and should be so installed.
I don't understand the first statement: the gap - ? How do I measure this?

Is this what you mean?






Is the bearing uni-directional? It will go in either way, correct?


On Friday I installed the allBallsRacing bearing and put it all together. The seal ended up leaking after I started it today, so I am going back to the stock setup.

I have a new race and bearing and seal.
 

Last edited by Road Star; Nov 6, 2016 at 03:00 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 03:45 PM
  #80  
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Is this about right?
 
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