Will do!
I'm hoping to take the case down to the local indy tomorrow.

 

Always something. ..
Found out if I use the AllballsRacing bearing kit, I have to remove the bushing, and I do not have the tool. damnit.
So, it looks like I'm stuck using the OEM bearing, or just leaving the original in there. Geez.

 

I wouldn't leave race in there with it being out of place(walked in). Like someone else mentioned you could grind it, which I don't recommend as you could ruin the shaft if not careful. The other option I mentioned is in the Baker video but requires taking trans apart & bumping shaft to get race back to a gap so you can get tool on to pull race. You can get the tool on eBay for about $60. It really would be worth it to pull trap door and get a new gasket on it. The door is one of the known leak spots.

 

The IPB race has to come off. The All ***** and Baker Hi-Torque setup eliminate the race; new IPB and seal only. Not a fan as issues have been reported but some go that route to eliminate the IPB race.

The race has walked in far enough that it doesn't look like there is enough room to get the tool behind the race. Use a Dremel tool and cut a diagonal notch in the IPB race; as has been suggested, be careful not to cut into the main shaft. The IPB race R/R tool is handy to have but since you may have to remove the IPB race via the dremel method, there is a DIY work around to install the OEM race (photo attached); wouldn't suggest it for the S&S race but since I have never tried it, can't say that it won't work. The S&S race starts to get tough to push on as the shaft hits the front end of the taper built into the S&S race. I suggest that you replace the IPB race with the OEM race or the S&S race. The S&S IPB race has a built in taper that will prevent the race from walking in. If you use the OEM race (it will go on easier) you might consider some bonding Loctite, used sparingly, to lock the race to the shaft. One of the 600 series Loctite products will work.

JP Cycles, Heartland and Georges Garage are sources are good sources for tools; George's offers Jim's quality tools at a decent price. You will need the pulley holder as has been illustrated or if so inclined, you can remove the top trans cover and put the trans in two gears at once which will lock the trans and eliminate the need for that tool; just need a new gasket for the trans cover. You will also need the deep well socket and donut to remove the trans pulley nut. There is a way to DIY this tool but requires some cutting and welding to fabricate but that is a possibility. Best to rent a 3/4" drive electric impact to make quick work of that nut but you can try with a breaker bar and cheater pipe first; there is enough trans fluid that has leaked, the nut might be so tough. The toughest part of the whole operation will be the removal of the main shaft/5th gear seal; the one the IPB race has walked into; a real PITA that requires patience. You might be speaking in tongues before you get it out.

As has been suggested, you should replace every seal behind the inner primary while you are in there; MDG seal, shift shaft seal, main shaft/5th gear seal, quad seal and spacer, jack shaft seal, IPB bearing and seal and rubber o-ring at alternator pocket. Do not use any sealant between the inner primary housing and the case and make sure the bolt hole bores for the inner primary bolts are clear of any oil. Use Hylomar sealant to seal between the inner primary bolts/locks and the case.


I have attached a couple of photos that might help.

 

Great info, djl! Thank you!

I'm thinking of removing the race with a Dremel and using the AllballsRacing bearing and seal. This should work , right ? Do you advise against this?

 

Also, does it matter which side the bearing is pressed into?

 

I don't like either the All ***** or the Baker bearing/seal kits; prefer to run the IPB race per the OEM design. However, many of the All ***** and Baker bearing/seal kits being used. I just prefer the OEM setup; bullet proof if done correctly. Your call.

If you are referring to the IPB, it will only go in one way; it bottoms out against a lip at the bottom of bearing bore. It should be obvious when you look at it.

 

I do not see that lip.

 

Maybe on the newer models there's a lip. mine just has two snap rings.
Looks like the bore in the case is the same ID all the way through.

 

You are right; my bad. I have an early model and should know better. In the early models the bearing can be pressed, or pulled, in from either direction whichever is easiest depending on the tools used. If using the All *****/Baker unit with the wider bearing you should install the snap ring first and install the bearing from the other side so it bottoms out against the snap ring. Have to be careful and stop when the bearing seats against the snap ring.

Freeze the bearing overnight, liberally apply assembly lube and you can rig up a puller with some all thread, large washers, PVC and nuts to install the bearing. If you have a propane torch, you could first try heating up the bearing boss and the frozen bearing might drop in. The important thing is getting the bearing to start straight in the bore.