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If I remember correctly those screws go into a nut with a rubber gasket that fits into a larger hole. If you tighten them to much you will tear the rubber gasket or strip them and you wont be able to get them back out. tighten them enough to compress the rubber and hold them firmly in the hole.
Kind of like the screws that hold the windshield on a touring bike.
And if memory serves me correctly, the rubber gasket is on the back side of the ring, isn't it? I think you're correct though, Sarge. If my memory isn't completely burned out!
If I remember correctly those screws go into a nut with a rubber gasket that fits into a larger hole. If you tighten them to much you will tear the rubber gasket or strip them and you wont be able to get them back out. tighten them enough to compress the rubber and hold them firmly in the hole.
Kind of like the screws that hold the windshield on a touring bike.
When I changed the headlight on my 11 EGC those screws went straight into the fairing. No well nuts, no rubber, no gasket.
I think you're looking at #3 part # 4790 #10-16x3/4 Torx head self tapping. I couldn't find a value either but I believe you go tight and just a smidge more. YMMV
I see Buelligan posted the same thing while I was still looking for it
While fretting a little over torque values for those screws, the main reason the manual just says to tighten securely is that the screws are mating to a plastic material, and what might be proper torque THIS time, might not be the case NEXT time. The plastic distorts each time the screws are tightened, causing a little more thread clearance each time. You get the picture, I'm sure. No metal backing the threads so torque will be variable. Hand tight has never failed me, and my bike is what would be called high-mileage.
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