Possible clutch problem?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,877
Likes: 659
From: Yuba City, Ca.
EDIT: Now that I'm thinking about this again, I do remember when I brought it back to the indy shop, I did put my front wheel up against a parking curb and slipped the clutch. I didn't hear it then. Now I'm starting to wonder if it's tranny noise... Hmmmm......
Last edited by ElectraJim; May 11, 2017 at 04:49 PM.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,877
Likes: 659
From: Yuba City, Ca.
after doing much the same work on the primary. similiar thing happened. pulled the cover and found the comp was rubbing the inside of primary cover. .found the comp/sprocket was 0.037 outbound. Grinded the rotor raised area were the comp sat on it down to as close to zero,then retorqued comp and ground a little off inside primary.
just a thought
just a thought
Great suggestion! Thanks!!
Last edited by ElectraJim; May 11, 2017 at 04:51 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 221
From: farmington michigan
How are your clutch plates have they ever slipped? I was just in mine doing a trans rebuild and replaced my clutch plates while I was in there I soaked them before install and still when I first started it up after refilling it whined for a minute or two I'm guessing until the fluid got into the clutch. Btw how much fluid did you put back in the primary? I believe after a tear down the refill amount is 45 oz
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,877
Likes: 659
From: Yuba City, Ca.
How are your clutch plates have they ever slipped? I was just in mine doing a trans rebuild and replaced my clutch plates while I was in there I soaked them before install and still when I first started it up after refilling it whined for a minute or two I'm guessing until the fluid got into the clutch. Btw how much fluid did you put back in the primary? I believe after a tear down the refill amount is 45 oz
Now I'm starting to wonder if it's tranny noise. I'm still at a bit of a loss. When I took it to the indy shop, the guy told me, "These bikes are not meant to be downshifted if you downshift and the RPM rise is over 500 rpms." He also went on to tell me if it was a tranny problem, it will just stop shifting. Sometimes, I don't know what to believe any more. The guy might be a complete crack pot.
One thing I have noticed after I put the primary back together is, it is now a little hard to find neutral.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 221
From: farmington michigan
I do understand I've been chasing a drive train noise since last year on my 2010 and it is only when I downshift out of 6th 5th and 4th but mine wasn't a whine it was more of a clicking just went through and replaced every bearing I could find through the primary and trans. I did just like you se compensator chain adjuster and all bearings and still have a little noise but now I'm waiting for it to grenade then I'll know. I hope you find the cause we have all been there and we're here to help if we can
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,877
Likes: 659
From: Yuba City, Ca.
I appreciate all the help Big-Mike. Thank you.
Looks like this weekend I'm going to be troubleshooting numerous things. I'm probably going to start by looking at final drive belt tension, then most likely taking the primary case apart again and looking at chain tension. I'm also thinking about getting the clutch rebuilt, i.e. new bearings. I also need to look at the heat shield brackets as those may be rattling as well.
It's all very distracting when riding and it's not enjoyable like it really should be.
Thanks again!
Looks like this weekend I'm going to be troubleshooting numerous things. I'm probably going to start by looking at final drive belt tension, then most likely taking the primary case apart again and looking at chain tension. I'm also thinking about getting the clutch rebuilt, i.e. new bearings. I also need to look at the heat shield brackets as those may be rattling as well.
It's all very distracting when riding and it's not enjoyable like it really should be.
Thanks again!
Last edited by ElectraJim; May 12, 2017 at 01:49 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 565
From: Utah
Subsequent times I have had that downshift squeal (after tire change), I knew exactly what to check, and it's cleared up each time with a belt tension adjustment.
You may have something else, but the belt tension is relatively easy to deal with.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,877
Likes: 659
From: Yuba City, Ca.
Nope the squeal never came when riding it, just when downshifting specifically. The first time I had it, I thought for sure it was the clutch or the primary/compensator. A forum member told me to check the belt, and damn if that wasn't it.
Subsequent times I have had that downshift squeal (after tire change), I knew exactly what to check, and it's cleared up each time with a belt tension adjustment.
You may have something else, but the belt tension is relatively easy to deal with.
Good luck!
Subsequent times I have had that downshift squeal (after tire change), I knew exactly what to check, and it's cleared up each time with a belt tension adjustment.
You may have something else, but the belt tension is relatively easy to deal with.
Good luck!
I rode the bike home and replaced the Torca muffler clamp again on the left hand side. Now I hear it all the time when riding! Sigh. It still sounds like it's coming from the compesating sprocket. I may have not torqued it down tight enough. I followed Baker's instructions where it states, "Apply some red Loctite to the 625A-67 hex bolt and clutch nut. Torque
clutch nut to factory specifications following your service manual, then
torque PN 625-67A hex bolt to 100ft-lbs, then back off (loosen) a half
turn then re- torque to 140ft-lbs for final torque." I believe the FSM states to torque it to 160 ft. lbs. Maybe I need to retorque it to that spec instead???
Last edited by ElectraJim; May 15, 2017 at 10:28 AM.
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 974
Likes: 13
From: Chesapeake Virginia
Jim,
Your Bakers instruction sheet replaces the FSM instructions along with the compensator. I would not over torque the Baker to the FSM. A change to the Torca clamp made a change to the problem. Sounds like root cause is in sight.
Your Bakers instruction sheet replaces the FSM instructions along with the compensator. I would not over torque the Baker to the FSM. A change to the Torca clamp made a change to the problem. Sounds like root cause is in sight.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 565
From: Utah
Yep, I checked that this weekend and it's right in spec. One other thingt I thought it might be was, I had a slip on muffler that kept coming loose and it was rattling. It seems that it only makes the noise at about 2000 RPMs(I narrowed it down to that). One other thing, I took it to another indy repair shop this weekend. One of the top mechanics took it out for a ride and said to him, it sounded like something is loose.
I rode the bike home and replaced the Torca muffler clamp again on the left hand side. Now I hear it all the time when riding! Sigh. It still sounds like it's coming from the compesating sprocket. I may have not torqued it down tight enough. I followed Baker's instructions where it states, "Apply some red Loctite to the 625A-67 hex bolt and clutch nut. Torque
clutch nut to factory specifications following your service manual, then
torque PN 625-67A hex bolt to 100ft-lbs, then back off (loosen) a half
turn then re- torque to 140ft-lbs for final torque." I believe the FSM states to torque it to 160 ft. lbs. Maybe I need to retorque it to that spec instead???
I rode the bike home and replaced the Torca muffler clamp again on the left hand side. Now I hear it all the time when riding! Sigh. It still sounds like it's coming from the compesating sprocket. I may have not torqued it down tight enough. I followed Baker's instructions where it states, "Apply some red Loctite to the 625A-67 hex bolt and clutch nut. Torque
clutch nut to factory specifications following your service manual, then
torque PN 625-67A hex bolt to 100ft-lbs, then back off (loosen) a half
turn then re- torque to 140ft-lbs for final torque." I believe the FSM states to torque it to 160 ft. lbs. Maybe I need to retorque it to that spec instead???
It may be the primary area stuff then, maybe the compensator. Hell I dunno. I wish you a speedy resolution though. Something about the change with the new Torca clamp though, maybe something along those lines??
Last edited by crazytown; May 15, 2017 at 04:25 PM.