When I ride around 6 miles , the engine shuts off. It will start and run for 1 second , then die.
....if I let it set for 10 minutes , it will run great for another 6 miles,,.... it is a 2000 ultra classic
Any ideas on what's going wrong?????

 

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...0-flhtcui.html

 

yes, strongly suspect circuit breaker

as detailed above

mike

 

Thanks for the input !!!! I will check that bad boy out.

 

like the above suggestions state, check it out. HOWEVER, on my 2001 UC it was the wire from the ignition, which came out of the fairing and down along the frame neck. In that bundle of wiring, was the main ign wire, that torn apart. yes. it was too tight from the factory and over time, it shreds to only one or two strands. That was my case. I opened up the wiring harness and could see why it would shut off when turning or driving. easy fix when you find it. it worked for 8 years, & was working fine when I sold the bike last month.

 

If checking the breaker, make sure to look at the connections at the breaker. Corrosion at the crimps can cause a issue . Also loose connections

 

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You need to narrow 1st see if it's a lack of fuel or ign issue.

But 1st ensure you have enough fuel in the tank,yup,over 5 decades wrenching bikes & cars i have seen guys having issues like yours actually having basically empty fuel tank causing the problem.

Ok,with having fuel in the tank out of the way bring some starting fluid/either and an know good used spark plug with you for on the road diagnostics.

Then ride the bike till it quits and wont refire either.

Then quickly spray a short shot of starting fluid into air cleaner /air filter and try to restart the motor.

If it refires for a short time then dies again that verifies you have ign but no fuel.

In thats case look for a clogged fuel filter,bad fuel pump,f pump relay letting go under load,issues with plastic tubing running to fuel pump,etc.

If it doesnt fire at all on starting fluid then you have lost ign which you can verify by removing a plug wire.

Then insert known good used plug into the plugwire and ground main body of plug on head or cyl fins.

Then hit starter to spin motor over to see if you have spark @ the plug.

No ign could mean mult things but i'd start 1st at coil,ign module ,relay/breaker & go from there.

Scott

 

plugged fuel filter did you add any additives lately that's not compatible with your fuel system.
Had a very similar situation with a muscle car I had turned out the fuel filter was totally plugged and I had replaced it a few months prior.

 

Does it just die, or do you lose all power? If you lose all power replace the circuit breaker, and add a larger thicker ring terminal on the silver post as it will act as a heat sink, and help the circuit breaker last much longer.

If it just dies check the wiring under the tank for being too tight, if it is an injected bike they also had the injector harness a bit short, and over time wires will break in the insulation, and cause it to die, or run poorly.

 

Always check your battery cables to make sure that they're clean and tight and also check the cable to frame bolt and make sure that your battery is fully charged.

Can you check to see if your bike will "code"?
You need to determine if your bike is not getting fuel or fire.
Does it act like you hit the "kill switch or does if feel like it's running out of fuel?

If it's an electrical issue you should be able to get the bike to "code" and this would give you a clue as to what your problem may be.

My '00 started this "dying" issue and not wanting to start sometimes and it finally got so bad that I had to take it to the shop and it turned out to be a defective "kill" handlebar switch.

You have the MM EFI System so you may be in for some serious issues.
At about 75,000 miles mine had an erratic, sputtering at lower RPM's.
We could not get the bike to "code" so I replaced the TPS and then the ETS, then the bike coded indicating a defective ECM.
If you have to replace the ECM try to get an OEM as the aftermarket one that we put on my bike made it run much better but it would never start as quickly as it did with the OEM.

Your bike is getting older and loose connections, broken wires, etc. could be a factor and a real b***h to diagnose or locate. You may want to get a large window fan (to keep your engine cool) and with your bike idling, try turning your handlebars back and forth, moving wire harnesses (gently) and "jiggling" your ignition and kill switches to see if the bike stops running.

Be patient.