Thanks for all the input guys, really appreciate.

i am going to give the alternative seal a go tomorrow. Fortunately I have become rather good at getting the pipes on and off :-)

 

Are you following the proper torque sequence? I used to just tighten mine down and try to make sure the nuts were on the studs evenly. Always wound up with a leak. I started following the torque sequence as laid out in the FSM, no more leaks. Tapered gaskets.

 

so just to be clear, are you saying you fitted 2 gaskets in each port?

 

Yes - the Screamin Eagle gaskets, not the tapered OE gaskets.

 

Yes, this is critical!

 

As mentioned by a couple posters, make sure you follow the proper torque sequence....

It's just a tad more complicated than just trying to tighten them equally.....

From an '09 service manual...

1. If removed, install transmission exhaust bracket and tighten fasteners to 84-132 in-lbs (9.5-14.9 Nm).
2. Install new gaskets in both the front and rear cylinder head exhaust ports with the tapered side out.
3. Place exhaust header pipe into position on motorcycle and start two exhaust flange nuts to secure front header pipe to studs of front cylinder head.
4. See Figure 4-41. Roll pipe into position at rear cylinder, making sure welded bracket on header pipe is below the side exhaust bracket.
5. Start two exhaust flange nuts to secure rear header pipe to studs of rear cylinder head.
6. Secure header pipe to side exhaust bracket with carriage bolt and flange nut. Do not tighten at this time.
7. Slide new clamp onto crossover pipe.
8. Install new gasket. Twist and push crossover pipe onto exhaust header pipe.
9. Install exhaust support clamp and secure with fastener. Do not tighten.
10. Install mufflers
NOTE
Verify that the exhaust pipes do not contact the motorcycle
frame or any mounted components.
11. Tighten the exhaust system as follows:
a. Tighten the top nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
b. Tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
c. Tighten flange locknut to 20-25 ft-lbs (27.1-33.9 Nm).
d. Tighten crossover pipe clamp to 25-30 ft-lbs (33.9- 40.7 Nm).
e. Tighten fastener to 14-18 ft-lbs (19.0-24.4 Nm).
12. Install heat shields. Position each worm drive clamp so that screw is on the outboard side in the most accessible position and tighten to 20-40 in-lbs (2.3-4.5 Nm).
13. Connect O2 sensor connectors and install new cable straps to secure front connector to back of cross brace.

 

No I haven't followed that, but I absolutely will next time, thank you for this

 

I've removed and refitted exhausts several times on Twinkies and haven't found the gaskets to be particularly sensitive. I hack related then, however, using OEM parts. I put them in the freezer overnight, when I take them out, I move swiftly to give them a shot of lubricant. ..spray silicone works fine...and install them by hand. Haven't found the need to have a tool. Again, don't let those things warm up when you take them outta the freezer. Consider buying a couple of extras to throw in the freezer in case one or two warm up on ya.

 

Tried again tonight, good torque sequencing and tapered and SE gaskets, no difference

pipe is not cracked,

so, head gasket??

 

Still have a rear exhaust leak....?

Time to break out the smoke sticks, or a good cigar, and see if you can pinpoint the exact leak location....