Help with bolt in primary
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,675
Likes: 95
From: Billings,Mt.
Also the hex is shallower than socket cap screws which means the driver can strip them easier.
Last edited by 1flhtk4me; Jul 4, 2017 at 07:38 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,741
Likes: 1,599
From: Danbury CT
It doesn't matter how they're torqued. If you use stainless or Chrome into an aluminum primary cover they will melt together and become one. You need to use anti seize in the derby and the primary cover. Also on the brake calipers if they mail to an aluminum bracket as they do on my Heritage in the back.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
Likes: 647
From: Santa Clarita
I've used a center punch to get them out...but seeing as how the OP has solved his problem, I won't run thru how that works.
But I will say that Loctite 242 Blue works as an anti-seize too, in addition to a thread lockers.
But I will say that Loctite 242 Blue works as an anti-seize too, in addition to a thread lockers.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,675
Likes: 95
From: Billings,Mt.
It doesn't matter how they're torqued. If you use stainless or Chrome into an aluminum primary cover they will melt together and become one. You need to use anti seize in the derby and the primary cover. Also on the brake calipers if they mail to an aluminum bracket as they do on my Heritage in the back.
Antiseize on the back of the head should help.I bet washers would help also.
It's not the thread that is jamming up as you know.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,476
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From: Charleston, SC
As a former HD maintenance tech, before you drop your oil always run the bike hot, then park and loosen those bolts.
Only turn them when they're hot and you'll never have a problem breaking them loose.
Also, never use a center punch or grooving, slotting, hammer, or whatever.
Just use a 15/64 drill bit to take the head off clean and then you can roll the left over shank out with your fingers.
The bolt is obviously already center punched, and this method takes only seconds. Saves the chrome on a lot of primary covers this way.
Only turn them when they're hot and you'll never have a problem breaking them loose.
Also, never use a center punch or grooving, slotting, hammer, or whatever.
Just use a 15/64 drill bit to take the head off clean and then you can roll the left over shank out with your fingers.
The bolt is obviously already center punched, and this method takes only seconds. Saves the chrome on a lot of primary covers this way.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 463
From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf
I agree with lp as to remove the bolts when the bike is hot. I can't agree with the anti-seize, but I will second that blue locktite keeps them snug in there, and I have never had one seize up when using this combo.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,741
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From: Danbury CT
The blue Loctite acts like an anti seize but anti-seize is better for the application. I have never had one of these to come loose on two bikes over the last 12 years. Loctite is not needed on the primary or Derby covers
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Good roads, cold beer
had to drill one out once (which was odd as I had torqued them to spec prior.) It wasn't that bad. Once the button head popped off and I had the derby cover off one could easily remove the rest of the bolt unscrewing via fingers. The torx bits do seem to get chewed up over time. for whatever reason.