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So I`ve done several searches on air filters, read some curious info. I read that stock filter takes in more air than any after market?? I was trying to figure out which direction to go, now I`m more confused. 2015 Street Glide Special with VH Dresser Duals and 4" Rounds, F3 tuner. Does adding AF make it stage 1, what else would I need? Interested in feedback on what others have done on AF... Any feed back is appreciated...
So I`ve done several searches on air filters, read some curious info. I read that stock filter takes in more air than any after market??
I'm curious, can you reveal your source of information supporting your findings?
Appreciate it!
B Bop
2012 FLHR (Road King) Ember Red Sunglo & Merlo Cruise Control, ABS, Chrome Aluminum Profile Laced Spoke Tubeless Wheels, Security Package, Saddle Bag LED Lid Spoilers, and an array of accessories that enhances nostalgic appearance & blood curdling performance.
No man's life, liberty, or property is safe while the legislature is in session.
the stock air filter does not take in more air than any aftermarket. but it does take in sufficient air (this is for the past few years, older it did make a diff). it doesn't really matter if an af takes in 35cfm, vs 20 cfm if the bike can only take in max of 8 cfm. (those numbers are just arbitrary, so don't go quoting them). basically, use whatever air cleaner/filter that you like the look of.
IMO for normal use like keeping around 3500 RPM any filter should provide adequate air flow since it's only going to need less then half of max flow. But if filter isn't clean and drag racing will choke the engine. Benefit of large filter media is it will provide more air flow even it isn't clean compare to dirty stock air filter.
I always relied on the math, 103.5" x 6000 rpm / 3456 = a cfm requirement of 180, was not aware it only pulls 8 cfm..... interesting.
B Bop
2012 FLHR (Road King) Ember Red Sunglo & Merlo Cruise Control, ABS, Chrome Aluminum Profile Laced Spoke Tubeless Wheels, Security Package, Saddle Bag LED Lid Spoilers, and an array of accessories that enhances nostalgic appearance & blood curdling performance.
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass, it's about learning to ride in the rain. WDB
I always relied on the math, 103.5" x 6000 rpm / 3456 = a cfm requirement of 180, was not aware it only pulls 8 cfm..... interesting.
B Bop
2012 FLHR (Road King) Ember Red Sunglo & Merlo Cruise Control, ABS, Chrome Aluminum Profile Laced Spoke Tubeless Wheels, Security Package, Saddle Bag LED Lid Spoilers, and an array of accessories that enhances nostalgic appearance & blood curdling performance.
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass, it's about learning to ride in the rain. WDB
If you're referring to the numbers scratch posted he said clearly they were arbitrary and not to be quoted.
His point, as I understand it, is that as long as the stock filter is able to flow more air than the engine requires a still higher flow filter is just overkill.
The Rushmore air cleaners are far more than a Stage 1 bike will ever need. On older bikes this wasn't the case as skratch noted. Improvements in air cleaner design and filter media has made the stock air cleaner an unnecessary need for upgrading.
Seems to me the air intake's only the half of it. You can make as much air available to the engine as you want, but the engine has to be able to use more air. That means opening the exhaust. Air in....air out.
On the new bikes, one can modify the intake or exhaust to improve sound and slightly improve performance (and appearance). To modify both moves through a lot more air/fuel mixture, and is outside of EPA engine specs---it's not within the pre-programmed parameters of the stock ignition timing/fuel injection map. So you have to buy a new module. If you want a lot more performance, you have to have all the above, and do engine modifications (usually head work, big cams, etc). Do that and you need a better clutch... As you know, there is no end to it.
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