Fixing weeping rocker box gasket, replace umbrella valve?
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 246
Likes: 217
From: Phoenix, Az
Fixing weeping rocker box gasket, replace umbrella valve?
I have a '00 RK and 32k I just developed a weeping rocker box gasket on the rear cylinder. I've never removed the rocker cover or box before but doesn't look terribly tough judging from the service manual and what I've seen online here. I'm pretty good with tools, just haven't done this particular job yet. For parts looks like I'd just need the lower gasket and the upper one for the cover and that's about it.
Question: Is it normally a good idea to go ahead and replace the umbrella valve assembly while I'm in there? Meaning the umbrella valve, foam, and gaskets. And if so should I replace the little cover that goes over it all? I don't have any major oil carryover problems or anything, plus I have a breather catch can, but seems seems like a reasonable preventative thing to do.
While I'm at it........is removing the tank for this procedure necessary and/or worthwhile? Seems like it but if there's a way to just move it a bit without disconnecting fuel lines etc I'd be all for it. Normally I like some space to really see what I'm doing but removing the tank looks like a nuisance.
Lastly, I see the all the internal rocker bolts need blue loctite which means I need to degrease the male and female threads so it adheres, and also remove old leftover locktite so it doesn't get into the engine. I know parts cleaner will degrease, but what's a good way to clean those female side threads and get the old locktite fragments out?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Question: Is it normally a good idea to go ahead and replace the umbrella valve assembly while I'm in there? Meaning the umbrella valve, foam, and gaskets. And if so should I replace the little cover that goes over it all? I don't have any major oil carryover problems or anything, plus I have a breather catch can, but seems seems like a reasonable preventative thing to do.
While I'm at it........is removing the tank for this procedure necessary and/or worthwhile? Seems like it but if there's a way to just move it a bit without disconnecting fuel lines etc I'd be all for it. Normally I like some space to really see what I'm doing but removing the tank looks like a nuisance.
Lastly, I see the all the internal rocker bolts need blue loctite which means I need to degrease the male and female threads so it adheres, and also remove old leftover locktite so it doesn't get into the engine. I know parts cleaner will degrease, but what's a good way to clean those female side threads and get the old locktite fragments out?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
Install the newer breather assemblies, they're better than the old ones you have. Drill out the oil return hole in the rocker plate as well. It takes less time to remove the tank and not have anything in the way than it does to try and dick around with it still on and propped up with wood or something. Put two pair of fuel line pliers on the crossover and cut it in between with a rag under it. Replace the line on re-install.
Now all of that said, now would be a great time to have a look at the tensioners and change the inner cam bearings.
Now all of that said, now would be a great time to have a look at the tensioners and change the inner cam bearings.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; Sep 18, 2017 at 11:41 AM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
Likes: 647
From: Santa Clarita
Agree with regard to breathers, I believe that they are only eight bux per kit. I would use carb choke cleaner in those threads...don't get it on anything delicate, like your paint. Blow out with compressed air. Definitely remove your tank. Replace both gaskets, front and rear cylinders. You might want to install Rockouts when you're in there, very inexpensive, easy to install, whether or not you have a noise issue, a no-risk dealio.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 461
Likes: 119
From: North Dakota
Do the breathers, they are cheap. Get the Harley gaslets, I used some Cometic gaskets twice and they leaked both times. I didn't remove the tank, but it is tight. This last time I used the Harley gaskets, installed Rockouts, and drilled out the oil return holes. So far, so good.
The biggest pain is the rear left bolts on the rear cylinder. The frame is really close. Pulling the front motor mount and dropping the motor a little can give some clearance.
The biggest pain is the rear left bolts on the rear cylinder. The frame is really close. Pulling the front motor mount and dropping the motor a little can give some clearance.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 246
Likes: 217
From: Phoenix, Az
Just curious, if you have to drain the tank when you remove the high and low pressure fuel lines then why clamp and cut the crossover line rather than just remove it and nothing should drain out. Then reinstall the original line with regular hose clamps? Am I missing something?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 9,978
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From: Michigan
Just last month, we were on a trip in NC and my cousin's '99 EVO Springer started to leak oil out of the rocker boxes.
Common problem for the EVO's (as are intake seals) and was smearing oil on everything.
Total parts and labor was $300, but keep in mind that was in NC.
Common problem for the EVO's (as are intake seals) and was smearing oil on everything.
Total parts and labor was $300, but keep in mind that was in NC.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
Just curious, if you have to drain the tank when you remove the high and low pressure fuel lines then why clamp and cut the crossover line rather than just remove it and nothing should drain out. Then reinstall the original line with regular hose clamps? Am I missing something?
Last edited by Campy Roadie; Sep 19, 2017 at 10:45 AM.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 95
From: lancaster, pa
good practice removing the tank, ive got it down to 4&1/2 minutes.
quick dis connect on the cross over pays for itself imo
if you have the new umbrella ect , id wait inspect clean and maybe replace ,just me.
i liked drilling out breathers holes not sure why
quick dis connect on the cross over pays for itself imo
if you have the new umbrella ect , id wait inspect clean and maybe replace ,just me.
i liked drilling out breathers holes not sure why
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 246
Likes: 217
From: Phoenix, Az
I have a little bit of mission creep going on but that's ok, that's normally how it ends up for me. I was originally going to just replace the leaky rocker gasket and done. I'm decided I'd also do the umbrella valves so that means I may as well do them on both cylinders. Since I'm in both cylinders now I think I'll go ahead and try those Rockout bushings, seems cheap and easy so why not. And since I'm in there I may as well drill the oil return holes to 1/8" for good measure. I'll set aside plenty of time since it's my first time though this job but sounds like I can bang it out in an afternoon even it I take my time. I'm usually a slow worker because I'm pretty meticulous when I work.
I've been thinking about this cam chain tensioners for awhile now, that'll be coming up fairly shortly but not part of this project.
I've been thinking about this cam chain tensioners for awhile now, that'll be coming up fairly shortly but not part of this project.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,637
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From: Lake, Ms
Originally Posted by MorecowbellAz
I've been thinking about this cam chain tensioners for awhile now, that'll be coming up fairly shortly but not part of this project.