Harley brake recall.... Time to replace pads
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
Harley brake recall.... Time to replace pads ?
My bike is in the Harley brake recall. The pads are getting kinda thin with over 20K on them so I want to change them before I go in for the brake flush. I don't want to force the old fluid back up into the system when I compress the calibers. Can I just leave the cap on and open the bleeders before I compress the calibers and force the fluid out the bleeders? or it more involved that that? Never changed pads on a bike before. Cars several times. Thanks, HMT
Last edited by heavymetalthunder; Mar 4, 2018 at 09:53 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Great State of Canada
My bike is in the Harley brake recall. The pads are getting kinda thin with over 20K on them so I want to change them before I go in for the brake flush. I don't want to force the old fluid back up into the system when I compress the calibers. Can I just leave the cap on and open the bleeders before I compress the calibers and force the fluid out the bleeders? or it more involved that that? Never changed pads on a bike before. Cars several times. Thanks, HMT
If so, I'd just loosen the reservoir caps per standard procedure and not bleed fluid off. What they do at the Dealer should address your contamination concern. Just my $0.02.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
Yes you can. Actually it's recommended that it be done that way by many automotive manufacturers also. It keeps the "yucky stuff" from being pushed back up into the system. This can cause complications on many units that have ABS brakes also. Remember brake fluid can cause problems with the paint.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2015
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From: Wisconsin
I am sure other people will chime in. But I have 2011 Limited. You can change the pads without bleeding. Or at least I have. I did my brakes about a year and a half ago. All I did was take the cap off the cylinder. Push the pistons in slowly so you don't BLOW the fluid out. Make sure you to protect paint fenders whatever. Brake fluid is very corrosive. When I was done. I just topped off the fluid no issues. Do not squeeze the brake lever or empty the master. You will introduce air into the line. Also bottom line is they are going to bleed them might just depend how your bike is getting to the dealer. ABS on Harley's really makes it a challenge to bleed them properly. Search forum. Bleed ABS. Good luck pretty easy. Quick Thought. If when you are done you are getting all the fluid flushed and replaced. (Recall) Why would you care if the old fluid is pushed back into the system? Just get the new brakes on. 
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
Yes, I will ride it 12 miles to the dealer to get it flushed.
I really don't want to push any contaminated fluid back into the HCU.
I appreciate the reminder about the paint. I will cover the fender.
I can pull the caliber and hold it in a bucket while doing this. I may need another set of hands to do it this way.
Should I work the brake to push the piston all the way out and then clean that up before pushing it in to install the new pads?
I really don't want to push any contaminated fluid back into the HCU.
I appreciate the reminder about the paint. I will cover the fender.
I can pull the caliber and hold it in a bucket while doing this. I may need another set of hands to do it this way.
Should I work the brake to push the piston all the way out and then clean that up before pushing it in to install the new pads?
Road Captain
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 668
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From: Wisconsin
The reason the Harley is doing a brake recall is because of contaminated or possible contaminated fluid. So that ship has sailed. Harleys ABS has chambers that hold fluid. So unless you have a special tool. You won't bleed them properly anyway. That's way the recall is kinda nice. That's way I did not bleed mine when I did my brakes. And that's why I have my bike at the dealer as we speak getting it done before it gets warm.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,268
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From: farmington michigan
Just pop the caps push the pistons in replace your pads and don't mess with the bleeders there is no need the amount of fluid pushed back is minimal opening the bleeders if not done right could cause more problems let the dealer do the bleeding when they do the fluid change or ask them what the additional cost would be to have them replace the pads while they are at it. Jmho
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My bike is in the Harley brake recall. The pads are getting kinda thin with over 20K on them so I want to change them before I go in for the brake flush. I don't want to force the old fluid back up into the system when I compress the calibers. Can I just leave the cap on and open the bleeders before I compress the calibers and force the fluid out the bleeders? or it more involved that that? Never changed pads on a bike before. Cars several times. Thanks, HMT
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
Just a thought, I was looking at my pads a while back when I was doing a brake fluid flush, and thought that they were getting a little thin. So I had the dealer pull a new set out and mine were not near as bad as I thought and they have 40,000 miles on them. Recently the bike was in the shop for some motor work and I told them to check the brake pads while it was there and they said they weren't that bad. Those pads are not that thick to begin with so maybe you don't need them.
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From: Great State of Canada
I too have been replacing my pads "too soon". By my calculations % remaining on pads x cost of pads = $ value of too soon. "Any amount" of too late = cost of new rotors.
I plan to keep right on changing my pads too soon.
I plan to keep right on changing my pads too soon.