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5 Year Warranty

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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 02:44 PM
  #21  
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I'd put the money in the bank, let it earn a little in interest over the five years, and then if you have a repair, you have the money on hand to pay for it. Also makes the money liquid if you decide to replace or upgrade later.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 03:01 PM
  #22  
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I’m on my 6th HD, and only once have previously bought an extended warranty. It was on a new bike, and after a couple years I cancelled it, and received a prorated refund. This time, I traded a purchased new 14’ RK for a used 14’ SG. Not fully knowing the history on the bike, I decided to purchase a 3 yr extended. On new bikes, i figure what will go, will go within the factory warranty period. I don’t beat up on my bikes, and maintain them well, but not knowing how this bike was previously ridden, the extended gives me piece of mind. Yes, it is a gamble. I may never use it. However, if something goes that costs more than extended warranty purchase price + deductible, then its worth it to me. And anything else that goes after that, is only a $50 deductible.
 

Last edited by BCSG; Mar 25, 2018 at 03:02 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 03:36 PM
  #23  
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I bought a 2 year ESP with my limited and so far the dealership has replaced everything under the primary cover including the clutch pack and they also rebuilt the transmission. Both times were scheduled downtime (vacation & winter) so I never lost any riding time. With my plan they even picked it up and delivered it FREE! I do have a $50.00 deductible if I take it to another dealership. I am planning on extending this plan when mine runs out....
 
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 03:46 PM
  #24  
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I just traded a bike that I had 2 years left of a 3 year ESP and they did give me about half of my money back. So if you think you might trade I wouldn't worry about it. As long as it is a true HD extended warranty. Matt Laidlaw has a good youtube video that goes into a lot go detail about the warranties, what they will and won't cover, and the different types.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 04:00 PM
  #25  
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The compensators on some bikes are going bad and start making racket at 30k. The oiling system prior to the Milwaukee 8 is supposedly lousy thus your lifters like to rattle when you start up at times. The brakes are sometimes an issue. The hydraulic clutches have had their issues. On Rushmores the water pumps are going bad.

Harley depends upon the trailer queens to make their bikes have a good durability reputation. If you ride a lot (I do too) then you are gambling when you don't have an extended warranty IMHO. Do all HD's have major failures? No. Can you easily spend $1700 in 3 years? Yes. I am 70 years old and so every day I get to ride is a blessing... and having a major failure is beyond my financial comfort level... so I will update my ESP if I can when it runs out this October so my odds of riding until I can't anymore are better.

My last bike was an '06 Nightrain. When I upgraded my cam and bearings, oil pump (SE pump), timing chain tensioners, etc. at 40K the inner journal was scored. I babied that bike. I also replaced the compensator, the stator (bad regulator killed it), replaced the belt, and the clutch froze which sent me to a newer bike. I had no warranty plan for it. I got 90k mi. out of the bike until I'd had enough doing all the repairs myself. I loved the bike and did a lot to it. I would still have it if I had purchased an extended warranty. The engine was probably good for 120k and then I would have bought an S&S for it...

My 2014 Road King had a circuit board in the lh control fail. The seal for the triple tree bearings was improperly installed at the factory which caused dirt to get in and ruin my steering head bearings. My lifters rattle. It has 33k on it.

I'm a fan of the extended warranty if you hadn't guessed.
 

Last edited by cwsharp; Mar 25, 2018 at 04:02 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 05:18 PM
  #26  
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Interesting thread. What makes it complicated are the variables. If it was me and judging on the little we know, I'd keep the money. If you're a DIY $2700 buys a lot of parts. On the other hand, and if necessary you need a place to work, expertise and tools. Playing the odds, if the bike has performed well to date, then chances are it's likely to keep doing so and any component failure won't be a catastrophic economic disaster. A warranty does provide peace-of-mind - and ur almost hoping for a catastrophic failure just before it burns out to justify the expense in the first place!
 
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 08:33 PM
  #27  
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I have never bought an extended warranty on anything in my life, and have never regretted my decision. But then, I take care of my stuff.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 09:06 PM
  #28  
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it isn't a matter of 'taking care of your stuff'. sometimes **** happens. i take care of my stuff too, but the hd esp still bought my wife a new abs system and rear brake master cylinder for her bike when hers failed, after having done the 2 year brake fluid flush.

if you ride a lot, the warranty can pay for itself. if you don't, then it's a waste of money. if you're going to do a min of 10k per year, i'd consider it. it is an 09, some of those parts have a lot of wear on them.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 09:23 PM
  #29  
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Still curious about the ability to upgrade to a bigger motor if you blow it up? Seems like if you’re willing to pay the difference it would be possible? If I popped my 96 a 103, 107, 110 or even a 120 would be nice.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 09:52 PM
  #30  
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I am not normally into extended service plans, but there seems to be some non disclosed issues with the twin cams bikes which I have personally experienced, even with an excellent maintenance program these bikes are prone to catrosrophic failures. If you like the bike and plan on keeping it, I would go ahead and buy the warrantee. It is not a matter of (if) that pressed together crank is going to scissor, it’s a matter of when. When that happens it is all over. I read you had a new compensator installed, what did the primary chain tensioner shoe look like. If it was showing signs of wear, it could be an indicator of the chain being too tight, or an out of wack crank. In either case, it is an indicator of a possible bearing preload condition which means a lower end rebuild sooner than later. A new factory short block is is currenly $1800 + $1000 labor, so you can pay them now or pay em latter. With that kind of mileage already, I would presume some of the drive belt, seals and o-rings are going to start to detereate from heat and wear. Inner cam bearings are also problematic and prone to explode at higher miles. So, for $50 bucks to have someone else deal with it, that sounds like a bargain to me and priceless to to have less stress in worrying about a time bomb. All you have to do is ride the thing and when it brakes, drop it off and let them deal with it. “As long as the warrantee covers the stuff”
 
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