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Thanks for the advice. I've started the project in my own since my trusted independent Harley mechanic has had some issues. I've gotten the rocker box covers off, the rockers off, the push rods and lifters out, and drained the oil. Found some pieces of plastic in the cam box. Found metal debris in the oil.
my next plan is to pull the pistons and get the cam plate off so I can get to the oil pump. I assume I need to see if there is debris in the pistons and the cylinders.
This might sound dumb, but do I have to replace the oil pan? How do I "flush" things out? I was planning on wiping everything clean but are ther other tricks and tips?
If you have metal debris in the oil, most will tell you it's time to split the cases to ensure all the debris get flushed out... The problem is... it doesn't take much debris to clog a lifter or score the oil pump, which can lead to a major "lack of oil" related failure. It would suck to spend $xxxx money and xx hours to fix it... saving some time an money along the way, only to have to do it again in the near future...!!! There is no way to guarantee all the debris is cleaned-out without splitting the cases. Then again, you could do a very thorough flush & clean up, and be fine for over 100K miles....
Based on your description of the damage, I would be using this as an "opportunity" to send the bottom end off to Dark Horse for one of their superior crank set ups, and rebuild the motor from the bottom up... make it better than it was!
As for the oil pan, most have the opinion that because of the baffles in the oil pan, you'll never get it properly flushed. Time for a new oil pan...
Thanks for the advice. I've started the project in my own since my trusted independent Harley mechanic has had some issues. I've gotten the rocker box covers off, the rockers off, the push rods and lifters out, and drained the oil. Found some pieces of plastic in the cam box. Found metal debris in the oil.
my next plan is to pull the pistons and get the cam plate off so I can get to the oil pump. I assume I need to see if there is debris in the pistons and the cylinders.
This might sound dumb, but do I have to replace the oil pan? How do I "flush" things out? I was planning on wiping everything clean but are ther other tricks and tips?
start looking at YouTube and reading your service bible. If this were my bike, Id be doing a complete rebuild from split cases up. If the cylinders are still good, Id expect the rocker assemblies to be ok, but while if you are going this far, its a good idea to rebuild everything. Good time to upgrade the cams, oil pump, lifters, etc. In this case, you might want to look at Harleys short block exchange program. Will save you tine and probably some dollars as well.
start looking at YouTube and reading your service bible. If this were my bike, Id be doing a complete rebuild from split cases up. If the cylinders are still good, Id expect the rocker assemblies to be ok, but while if you are going this far, its a good idea to rebuild everything. Good time to upgrade the cams, oil pump, lifters, etc. In this case, you might want to look at Harleys short block exchange program. Will save you tine and probably some dollars as well.
start looking at YouTube +1
I put 551 gear drives in my 2001 FLTRI they were awesome. Hi lift version of the 509 I think. You have some other issues to sort out first..
I've thought of changing out the cam chain tensioner too on my 05 Fatboy. I was gonna go with a Feuling Oil Pump, Hydraulic cam chain tensioner, and change the cams. I just don't know what cams to go with. I want more torque around the 2500-3500 RPM range. I don't know what cams to go with. I'm thinking Woods 777, but I don't know..
Definitely would heed what others have said about pulling the motor and splitting the cases. You can do the Timken Bearing mod while they are apart and have your flywheel checked and worked on if needed. Then you can go chain or gear drive cams and other engine mods.
THIS is for anyone who wants to "inspect" spring tensioners. The one on the outside "looked great" according to the owner and I urged him not to ask me to put cam cover back on. When I pulled the cam plate I found the secondary tensioner had failed. I don't remember the miles but it was low enough that even I was shocked at the condition of the secondary. I just won't open the cam cover of a spring tensioner engine and not change the shoes for Cycos.
I have a service manual for my '16 RG and I just watched a youpube video of a gear drive install. It didn't look real tough to do.
Is it as easy to do as it appears?
Edit: I've been looking at other responses and I'm interested in peoples' opinions here that have done it.
Joe, you have a late model twin cam with the hydraulic tensioners so I wouldn't change them, they are not a problem. Maybe 75k check them. If your just looking to swap out the cams, even then I would stick with the chain drive, its cheaper, less hassle and has proven to be reliable. Not too difficult. I have done more than a few with no complications.
OP, as you study your options, you might want to consider what your bike will bring in serviceable condition versus what you're fixin' to spend on it. I'd guess you're going to be into it about three thousand dollars on the low end, goes up from there. Now, if this bike is your friend and you want it fixed no matter what, yep...I'd go for it and upgrade the engine. If you've had this random thought shuffle thru your head..."maybe it's time for a new bike"...it might actually be time for a newer bike with lower mileage. I'd make certain that it was a 2007 or newer, though!
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