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Just an F.Y.I. I replaced these cam tensioner shoes in a friends 2014 FLHTK. The bike had 47k on it. The shoe with the most wear was on the outside. I definitely wouldn't wait more than 50k before checking them.
I have a service manual for my '16 RG and I just watched a youpube video of a gear drive install. It didn't look real tough to do.
Is it as easy to do as it appears?
Edit: I've been looking at other responses and I'm interested in peoples' opinions here that have done it.
Originally Posted by jammerx
Joe, you have a late model twin cam with the hydraulic tensioners so I wouldn't change them, they are not a problem. Maybe 75k check them. If your just looking to swap out the cams, even then I would stick with the chain drive, its cheaper, less hassle and has proven to be reliable. Not too difficult. I have done more than a few with no complications.
Joe from So Cal, good advice above....... ^^^^^^
Additionally, you need crank run out to be .004 or less, (many believe it should be .003 or less) to use gear drive cams. Too much run out and you will ruin the cam gears... that can be worse than a trashed spring tensioner..
The newer the bike, the larger the MoCo has changed the "acceptable" crank run out numbers. I believe in '10ish, the Moco changed the max allowable run out spec to .012. That is a large amount of crank run out, and way outside the allowable limit for gear cams...
There is a good chance, the the run out on your '16, is way too large to allow for gear cams...... something to think about and check out, before even entertaining the idea of gear drive cams in your bike....
I measured .0025 on the crank run out for my '03 Heritage, yet when I got rid of the spring tensioners, I went with the '07+ cam plate upgrade with the roller chains and hydraulic tensioners. I believe that set-up to be very reliable.....
Last edited by hattitude; Jun 24, 2018 at 06:50 PM.
I've thought of changing out the cam chain tensioner too on my 05 Fatboy. I was gonna go with a Feuling Oil Pump, Hydraulic cam chain tensioner, and change the cams. I just don't know what cams to go with. I want more torque around the 2500-3500 RPM range. I don't know what cams to go with. I'm thinking Woods 777, but I don't know..
SE 204's are an option, but thats a side track.
What has the OP found since his last discovery?
Those needle bearings should have been accounted for when disaasembled.
Did you find the bits of the tension shoe inner and outer ?
The Swap section will offer some tools to remove the cam bearings and re-install them.
The other days there was a kit in their for reasonable $$ being used and all.
Pictures will also help offer opinions on what else you may have to replace .
Rob
Joe, you have a late model twin cam with the hydraulic tensioners so I wouldn't change them, they are not a problem. Maybe 75k check them. If your just looking to swap out the cams, even then I would stick with the chain drive, its cheaper, less hassle and has proven to be reliable. Not too difficult. I have done more than a few with no complications.
That's kind of the message I got when looking around. Thanks for your input.
Additionally, you need crank run out to be .004 or less, (many believe it should be .003 or less) to use gear drive cams. Too much run out and you will ruin the cam gears... that can be worse than a trashed spring tensioner..
The newer the bike, the larger the MoCo has changed the "acceptable" crank run out numbers. I believe in '10ish, the Moco changed the max allowable run out spec to .012. That is a large amount of crank run out, and way outside the allowable limit for gear cams...
There is a good chance, the the run out on your '16, is way too large to allow for gear cams...... something to think about and check out, before even entertaining the idea of gear drive cams in your bike....
I measured .0025 on the crank run out for my '03 Heritage, yet when I got rid of the spring tensioners, I went with the '07+ cam plate upgrade with the roller chains and hydraulic tensioners. I believe that set-up to be very reliable.....
Good information here. When I rack up 50k-75k miles I'll probably think about pulling it apart and giving them a visual check.
Update here. Got the whole thing apart. One of the needle bearings had broken and the cam that was in that was badly worn. I flushed out the system. I got the fueling hydraulic tensioner kit and replaced it along with new cams, and the new oil pump.
I actually got the bike to start and run, better than before but not perfect. It was rough and stalled out at idle. Had some oil leaking from the air filter, figured I out in too much oil, so I drained some out. Seemed to be smoother.
Then the bike wouldn't crank over. I charged the battery up. Then I got the clicking noise. Replaced the starter relay, still clicking. I took the cover off the solenoid and manually depressed the plunger. One click, tried to crank, then dead. Now I don't get the clicking. I don't get anything. No cranking, no clicking, nothing.
does this mean my starter is dead? Is it a solenoid problem? Have I blown some hidden fuse?
Does the motor turn over by hand without the plugs in? If it does pull the primary cover and see what the starter jackshaft is doing. I woould at least scope the cylinders and look for damage. Running the thing with no oil may have killed the top end, im really surprised you didnt pull the heads and check it out.
I'm not a Harley mechanic but I am an automotive machinist and allot of my trade physics applies to both worlds. I have an 06 electra classic and managed to dodge that bullet that nailed you and so many more (re failed timing chain tensioners). If you still have an engine worth salvaging, I recommend what I've done. Once you tear down to where you can check how much runout your crank has, do so. If the runout is within the allowable tolerances (.003) to install gear timing, DO IT! I would only recommend staying with chains if it is your only option, then (of coarse) use the lesser of the two "chain evils", that being the upgrade with hyd. tensioners. I invite anyone to discuss the down side to going with gear timed cams. Engine noise with gears?? Don't make me laugh. That little whine from the gears is a small price to pay and won't even be noticeable if you have pipes, honest!
And by the way, for just a few more dollars when you do this upgrade it's a perfect time to chose and install some performance cams! I went with 551 S&S on my 06 electra and I'm thrilled. Just that ---lope (at idle) is a gas, never mind the power increase.
So in a nutshell, take this negative and turn it into an opportunity to make your 88cid engine a rock solid, powerfull V twin. You'll love it.
Friend of mine just put a S&S 509 gear drive cam in his 05 ultra, he says it is a huge difference, great torque all through the rpm range. If it was me, i would do a gear drive cam while you are in there, not further concerns with tensioners
i think its 0.003 tolerance to use the great drive. The hydrolic tensioners are cheaper and dam good and dont have to worry about all the tolerance
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