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2001 FLHRCI running rich and idle wrong !!help!!

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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 01:58 PM
  #1  
Cory Epperson's Avatar
Cory Epperson
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Default 2001 FLHRCI running rich and idle wrong !!help!!

THE BIKE:I have a RK Classic with the magnetti morelli EFI. The previous owner had the 95" kit put on with cam, breather,exhaust (all Screaming Eagle),a dynojet commander 2 (which I know is antiquated and unavailable) and tons of chrome.
I have read all of the comments/responses about changing it and going with a carbs and will likely do that when it totally takes a dive but I am a young man with very little cash lying around and likely have not "payed my dues" long enough to have a head turner. So would like to keep it running well for now.

THE ISSUE: I am currently running rich and the idle is inorrect. There is alot of popping when I let off the throttle. I have even had "hiccups, farts, backfiring" (whatever its called) but it's coming through my breather.
My plugs are sooting up pretty quickly and the smell of unspent fuel is present upon start up and at stoplights. When I start up the bike there is seemingly no cold start idle it will always run at 750-850 rpm with throttle disengaged. From what I have read the bike should start and run at approx. 1300 rpm until warm then drop down to where it always is.

ALREADY DONE:Recently changed oil, plugs, wires, cleaned/oiled the air filter, cleaned the Mass Air sensor before/after filter clean, Lucas fuel injector cleaner (one large bottle of Lucas FIC between two fuel ups) replaced exhaust seals in both jugs.

ORDEREDbut not yet installed:
Fuel filter and internal hose
Tank seal and OEM screws
Intake seals

MY QUESTION: Any guidance to other items to inspect/check? If more information is needed I will gladly provide.
Is my dyno jet is bad? How can I verify for sure?
Is my throttle body out of adjustment?
I have seen instructions for adjustments that can be made on the EFI unit while metering voltages, but want to make sure I am diagnosing properly first.
Ive read about vaccum leaks causing some issues like this,but am not experienced enough to know that this is the right fix.
I would prefer the input of others before I believe just anything that the Google-button and Interweb BS.

Truly appreciate anyone that is willing to assist I feel so blessed to have this bike, but the disappointment of it not running well is really stressful.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 08:12 PM
  #2  
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Not sure about the PC 2 but there most be some way to ajust it. I would start by finding out how to ajust it, if it has maps like the pc3 or what not. There is method on this site for setting the cold idle, think in the sticky above. Beleave it shows how to set the TPS which can affect the fuel. The hot idle should be set at 1000, can bump that up to help with oil psi at idle. These MM system can run great but not the most efficient.

The hot idle is a stepper motor , if it's still working it should cycle out when key on then instantly come back to hot setting which as mentioned can be set with voltage meter in the sticky but you can just turn it out to raise the rpm, turn out a bit see where it's at when start then ajust till right.

Also it looks like the bike has stock exhaust & air cleaner, you could try unhooking the PC2. To see how it runs.
 

Last edited by xcbullet; Jul 24, 2018 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 08:25 PM
  #3  
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The MM EFI set-up is challenging on a stock bike. Following the HD service manual, I was able to get my 2001 88" running very nice. However, the challenge for you will be getting your 95" bike dialed in with those performance mods. Others on here will have other ideas, but I would start by troubleshooting & dialing-in your Dynojet ECM ... assuming there are no other mechanical issues.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 09:09 AM
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First check for any stored codes. You are definitely running rich. Rich conditions are usually not indicative of intake leaks. I would hold off on installing anymore parts. The popping is due to unburnt fuel in the exhaust. The proper map should fix that.

Does the bike seem to run OK when you are on the throttle? The reason I ask is that some early Twin Cams had the wires to the injectors too short. This caused stress and the wires would break internally. Check for broken wires especially on the front injector.

Have you cleaned the throttle body, including the two air bleeds at the top of the throat? While you are there clean the IAC valve, and ensure that it is working. It should move when you start the bike, and shut it down.

Download the software for the PCII so that you can see if the PCII is running, and be able to alter your map.
http://www.powercommander.com/powerc...?ProdType=PCII

Set the zero and WOT positions.

You can experiment with adding or deleting fuel to the zero throttle position from 0-200 RPM's to attempt to eliminate the popping. Another thing is to make sure that you are completely off the throttle when decelerating.
Contact Dynojet, and see if they may have some legacy maps somewhere that would match your setup.

Eventually you should replace that PCII with either:
1) PCV with Autotune
2) Convert to carb
3) Convert to Delphi EFI.
 
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