I have the old one if you want to buy it! why so Harsh words?

 

Because it's not true. Mine has 12 solder joints in it and I have a dyno sheet from a 107 build that proves I didn't lose 30% of my throttle.

 

 

 

Yup you sure can. Or...you can run by your dealer and pick up a couple new pins.

 

Thank You! Yeah, I think the pin is the way to go, seeing these handlebars just ate up 1/2 my air suspension budget! Trying to sale some stuff in classifieds to build it back up, if you know anyone looking for another TBW, stock shocks that came off a buddy of mine 03 Road King, he didn't want them after I put new shocks on his bike, only thing wrong with them is the boots are torn, I service the shocks then capped it off, just waiting on new boots to come to replace these torn ones and once I get budget built back I'm going to put the stock shocks off my Street Glide in the classified. Thanks for the help again!

 

I think what your friend was trying to warn you about was that sometimes solder joints can increase the resistance of the wires, and the "computer" is set to read certain voltages/values from the TBW wiring. If I understand correctly, and I may be wrong, the system has one increasing circuit and one decreasing circuit that change in value as you roll on and roll off, and the value it "reads" in the increasing circuit has to match within a certain range with the value it "reads" in the decreasing circuit, and if those values don't match the "computer" will force the system into "limp mode", which (and I also may be wrong about this) has two levels, one which allows a maximum reduced rpm that lets you continue to ride (at a very low rate of speed) and one that won't let the engine go above idle. He may be referring to the higher "limp mode" when he says you can lose 30 percent of your power.

So, lets say that the increasing circuit has a range of 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and the decreasing circuit has a range of 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 0, at mid throttle both would read 5, at idle one would read 0 and the other would read 10, and at wide open throttle it would be the opposite of 10 and 0. So if the computer reads 10 and 1 or 1 and 8 (or any other mismatch), it can force a reduction in power. If I understand the "why", this is done so that the system won't allow the engine to rev up because it mistakenly thought you wanted wide open throttle when you were at idle or mid throttle. Its a "safety" to keep the bike from taking off when you don't intend for it to.

Most people probably are not having a problem when they solder the wires because the connections are good enough so the system still reads the values within the allowed margin of error so everything works like it should. But sometimes you might have a problem if you have a bad connection (or two), and that may result in what your friend was trying to express.

I'm sure that someone much more knowledgeable of the TBW system can correct and clarify what my feeble (and ignorant) attempt at an explanation is trying to say.

Good luck with it, I hope you are back on the road soon!

 

 

I pretty much skimmed over this so maybe my answer has been stated or I'm answering the wrong question, but when I did my bars, the green connector got jammed in the dimple of the stock bars when I was pulling it out and my dumb *** shattered it trying to get it loose. After several attempts of connecting the pins and then electrical taping the hell out of em, I decided it was time to lube myself up and call the dealer. To my surprise, the pigtail connector was just 25 bucks and in stock. Call em up.