Changing Rocker Boxes
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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Using a torque adapter at 90 degrees to the torque wrench handle will torque the bolt at the setting of the torque wrench as hattitude has pointed out. Sometimes you might find yourself in a spot where a different angle will allow the necessary clearance that 90 degrees won’t work for. This can be done with a couple measurements and a calculation.
Here is is a link to a calculator that will give the proper torque wrench setting to achieve a given torque on a bolt with the adapter at any measurable angle to the torque wrench handle.
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx
Here is is a link to a calculator that will give the proper torque wrench setting to achieve a given torque on a bolt with the adapter at any measurable angle to the torque wrench handle.
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 976
Likes: 49
From: New York
Using a torque adapter at 90 degrees to the torque wrench handle will torque the bolt at the setting of the torque wrench as hattitude has pointed out. Sometimes you might find yourself in a spot where a different angle will allow the necessary clearance that 90 degrees wont work for. This can be done with a couple measurements and a calculation.
Here is is a link to a calculator that will give the proper torque wrench setting to achieve a given torque on a bolt with the adapter at any measurable angle to the torque wrench handle.
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx
Here is is a link to a calculator that will give the proper torque wrench setting to achieve a given torque on a bolt with the adapter at any measurable angle to the torque wrench handle.
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx
Cool thanks. How much of a torque value differnece do you notice with it at 90?
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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zero. A torque adapter at 90 degrees to the torque wrench handle will torque the fastener at the exact setting of the torque wrench. If any other angle is used, the output torque changes and the calculator must be used.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,599
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From: SWMO
No way to mess up timing unless you get into the cam plate and remove the cam gears....
They probably meant making sure the pushrods are on the base circle (cylinder at TDC) when you torque down the rocker arms.... and wait for the lifters to bleed down before rotating the engine.... open pushrod tubes and make sure you can spin the pushrods with your fingers. That's how you'll know they have bled down, then rotate the other cylinder to TDC to torque that one... again, wait for lifters to bleed down before rotating the engine after that cylinder is done....
It's not that hard... just follow the manual and take your time
PS- here's an old pic I took when I did the rocker plate drill mod..
They probably meant making sure the pushrods are on the base circle (cylinder at TDC) when you torque down the rocker arms.... and wait for the lifters to bleed down before rotating the engine.... open pushrod tubes and make sure you can spin the pushrods with your fingers. That's how you'll know they have bled down, then rotate the other cylinder to TDC to torque that one... again, wait for lifters to bleed down before rotating the engine after that cylinder is done....
It's not that hard... just follow the manual and take your time
PS- here's an old pic I took when I did the rocker plate drill mod..
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: New York
Ahhh gotcha . Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: San Diego, CA
Just for discussion's sake... I've drilled everyone I've ever been into and really can't see any particular reason for the .125" size. Other than a 1/8th" bit is pretty common. A long time ago I started using a #20 bit for the hell of it and can't see any issue's with the larger holes. I do re-chamfer also.
The way it looks in my pics with the .125" bit, looks like a good compromise to me. Bigger hole than OEM, but with enough OEM chamfer still there... It's also pretty easy for anyone to do. I am not a machinist, but can make a hole bigger. I've never dealt with, nor do I really know how to, properly add chamfer to a hole.
Obviously, I wouldn't want a hole without any chamfer, so if you drill bigger than .125" and maintain chamfer...... other than at some point it could/would be overkill, I can't see a problem....
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: SW Ohio
I've seen a number of references regarding using a .125" OR an 1/8" drill bit when it comes to drilling out the oil return holes as if they are different sizes; they are the same size. The final piece to the puzzle is routing the vent out of the air cleaner and to the ground.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; Mar 4, 2019 at 05:55 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Granville New York
I just did the return hole mod last night. Drilled to .125 then I used a .250 bit to clean up the bevel because there was no way a counter sink was going to fit in there. I've heard this adds 3- 4 ft lbs across the board lol
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