Electrical problems
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3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: iowa
Electrical problems
Working on a 2008 cvo Ultra, 1st thought it was regulator, no charge to battery, stator checked fine, checked regulator it was putting a charge , figured wiring to battery, but the lead wire to starter ( not the cable to battery / starter ) the one going to the 40 amp fuse, I attach a continuity test light on that alone and it apparently is shorting out somewhere, pull the 40 amp fuse light goes out, stays on while I pull all thr other fuses, ( battery is out ) when I turn switch to ignition the test light brightens , turn to acc it stays the same ..figure there is a short somewhere, just wondering if anybody can give any advice before I call it and take it to a dealership!!
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Utah
Working on a 2008 cvo Ultra, 1st thought it was regulator, no charge to battery, stator checked fine, checked regulator it was putting a charge , figured wiring to battery, but the lead wire to starter ( not the cable to battery / starter ) the one going to the 40 amp fuse, I attach a continuity test light on that alone and it apparently is shorting out somewhere, pull the 40 amp fuse light goes out, stays on while I pull all thr other fuses, ( battery is out ) when I turn switch to ignition the test light brightens , turn to acc it stays the same ..figure there is a short somewhere, just wondering if anybody can give any advice before I call it and take it to a dealership!!
Testing:
Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.
Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the batterys condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts its time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Heres a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5
If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.
Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stators AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.
One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Voltage Regulator Testing
Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: South Carolina
OP your testing method makes no sense, by your description it is impossible to figure out what you are doing.
If you have a charging issue, follow the troubleshooting procedure in the service manual, don`t try to invent your own method.
When it comes to troubleshooting electrical issues, a multimeter and a service manual/wiring diagram are what you need, a test light is useless.
If the wire between the starter and the main fuse was shorted, it would be melted...
If you have a charging issue, follow the troubleshooting procedure in the service manual, don`t try to invent your own method.
When it comes to troubleshooting electrical issues, a multimeter and a service manual/wiring diagram are what you need, a test light is useless.
If the wire between the starter and the main fuse was shorted, it would be melted...
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Oct 16, 2019 at 10:45 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 653
From: Atlantic Canada, eh
People often use the word "shorted" to collectively include a variety of non-normal conditions.
I think that could be the case here.
I think that could be the case here.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: iowa
I'll get back to it if it rains ,( harvesting now ) I appreciate the replies , just can't figure why it has continuity from lead wire to frame, plus only fuse that breaks it is the 40amp....
Again thanks. I'll get back to it later ....
Again thanks. I'll get back to it later ....
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
You shoudn't a harley, or most anything without owning service manual. I can't imagine trying to follows the wires on a computer screen.
You mesure stator by how much AC comes out, votl veg by how much DC is at battery. Lots of good links on internet about what levels. Stator usually around 20 vac per 1000 rpm, and dc should get to 14.4 revved up. Different year bikes have different ac output and single phase and 3 phase. Put lots of links on internet. Plus cycle electir has tech section.
You mesure stator by how much AC comes out, votl veg by how much DC is at battery. Lots of good links on internet about what levels. Stator usually around 20 vac per 1000 rpm, and dc should get to 14.4 revved up. Different year bikes have different ac output and single phase and 3 phase. Put lots of links on internet. Plus cycle electir has tech section.
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