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More than one way to skin a cat and they all work.
If you get your bike from point "A" to point "B" without damage to you bike, trailer or anyone else on the highway and you are happy with the results that is all that matters.
A friend of mine borrowed an enclosed trailer to take his bike to the shop. He did not have time to ride and wait for it. Easy right? Well little did he know that who ever installed the "D" rings in the floor did so by simply using wood screws into the floor! No backing washers, no nuts underneat, no nothing. So when he arrived his nice black ultra was laid over with the fairing scraping on the side of the trailer. So the best of straps and technics were worthless as some fool did not know what they were doing when they put the "D" rings in. Could have been worse.
Ride safe, trailer SAFE!
Last edited by Cosmic Razorback; Nov 10, 2019 at 07:30 PM.
More than one way to skin a cat and they all work.
If you get your bike from point "A" to point "B" without damage to you bike, trailer or anyone else on the highway and you are happy with the results that is all that matters.
A friend of mine borrowed an enclosed trailer to take his bike to the shop. He did not have time to ride and wait for it. Easy right? Well little did he know that who ever installed the "D" rings in the floor did so by simply using wood screws into the floor! No backing washers, no nuts underneat, no nothing. So when he arrived his nice black ultra was laid over with the fairing scraping on the side of the trailer. So the best of straps and technics were worthless as some fool did not know what they were doing when they put the "D" rings in. Could have been worse.
Ride safe, trailer SAFE!
i bought a toy hauler. Before loading my road glide I got under it and checked to see how the D ring tie downs bolted to,the frame. To my surprise they were long sheet metal screws that screwed through the wood floor and into some sheet metal. I bought some red iron and got some real bolts and nuts and red did the tie down. The red iron laps over the toy hauler frame and cross members and all mounts are now very secure. If you have a toy hauler crawl under it and check it out.
i bought a toy hauler. Before loading my road glide I got under it and checked to see how the D ring tie downs bolted to,the frame. To my surprise they were long sheet metal screws that screwed through the wood floor and into some sheet metal. I bought some red iron and got some real bolts and nuts and red did the tie down. The red iron laps over the toy hauler frame and cross members and all mounts are now very secure. If you have a toy hauler crawl under it and check it out.
Totally crazy. The whole trailer industry is all about what looks cool and will sell quick & easy at the lowest build cost possible.
How do you tie your motorcycle to a trailer? Some say use the forks so the suspension has travel and others have said don't do that you need to strap it to the frame and compress the forks. I just wondering for does who have trailer their bike how do you do it? ....
I note that this system is not mentioned and wondering if there is a reason it is not more popular?
I have used it in my utility trailer a number of times and it seems to work well. However, I will add that I do not trust the sysem all by itself, and I do add additional straps to ensure the bike can not tip over under a severe lateral trailer movement or move backward out of the chock. I would be affraid a hard lateral force could actualy damage the front MC wheel and tire. My SGS has front and rear tie down brackets that I use to attach the added straps to. These added straps will prevent tip over but do not compress the front shocks.
I have also purchased a second plate, that I have permenently mounted on my car port concrete floor, that I use to mount the chock in for maintenance and detailing. Very stable for that purpose.
I have used it in my utility trailer a number of times and it seems to work well. However, I will add that I do not trust the sysem all by itself, and I do add additional straps to ensure the bike can not tip over under a severe lateral trailer movement or move backward out of the chock. I would be affraid a hard lateral force could actualy damage the front MC wheel and tire. My SGS has front and rear tie down brackets that I use to attach the added straps to. These added straps will prevent tip over but do not compress the front shocks.
If a lateral movement strong enough to damage the bike's wheel or tire happened to your trailer, a damaged wheel would be the least of your problems. There wouldn't be anything left in one piece of you or the bike. But, keeping the bike from flexing up and down on road bumps helps the straps maintain their tightness. That's the primary reason for compressing the forks. Other wise the bike's constant bouncing puts a big strain on the straps and could loosen them. Then even a mild lateral movement could cause the bike to tip over. It has happened often.
I have the Lock & Load Chock and rear tie downs. https://www.locknloadwheelchocks.ca/product-info I note that this system is not mentioned and wondering if there is a reason it is not more popular?
That unit looks like many of the cheap wheel chocks being sold, but the price puts it in competition with the Wheel Dock, which is much superior.
Let the suspension work, otherwise it's slamming up/down on the straps.
Everyone has opinions and I don't trailer mine often, but if it's is on a lift of a trailer it's in a wheel chock with tank straps using the above method.
If you get your bike from point "A" to point "B" without damage to you bike, trailer or anyone else on the highway and you are happy with the results that is all that matters.
I was at "Little Sturgis" one year, and saw a guy come in with a 16' trailer filled with bikes...they were all on the kickstand, with a single strap over the seat..and he made it just fine...
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