Rebuild
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,183
Likes: 836
From: KMHT KFMY
The alternative to having your crank trued and welded,and everything magnafluxed, assuming the journals are in spec, is to use a S&S crankshaft, the down side it will run you $1300 dollars.
Last edited by Neggy ZRXOA 5248; Nov 26, 2019 at 07:26 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,421
Likes: 108
From: Tennessee
My philosophy has evolved over the years to, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
However, I would definitely do the lower end after increasing the bore size on the upper with 124k+ miles on the engine.
Also, if you decide to keep riding the "strictly adhered to maintenance" scoot, consider taking engine oil samples during oil and filter changes for a detailed oil analysis report. Any diesel engine dealer, CAT, Cummins, Detroit Diesel, etc..., offers them for less than 20-bucks and most have prepaid postage labels included. You'd be surprised all of the information one of those lab reports will tell you about the internals of your engine and oil properties.
Good luck.
However, I would definitely do the lower end after increasing the bore size on the upper with 124k+ miles on the engine.
Also, if you decide to keep riding the "strictly adhered to maintenance" scoot, consider taking engine oil samples during oil and filter changes for a detailed oil analysis report. Any diesel engine dealer, CAT, Cummins, Detroit Diesel, etc..., offers them for less than 20-bucks and most have prepaid postage labels included. You'd be surprised all of the information one of those lab reports will tell you about the internals of your engine and oil properties.
Good luck.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5,315
Likes: 4,272
From: Granville New York
I'd say with that many miles even with a mild rebuild you should take care of the bottom end. Call scott at hillside, that guy is a master at working with what you have and not upselling you on the biggest and baddest. Highly recommend hillside.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
https://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/tech-tips/lower-end
Road Captain
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 673
Likes: 252
From: Alberta
Hopefully you don't have any metal in your oil. My bike lost power, oil had lots of bronze in it. This required a costly rebuild as the bottom end was thrashed.
Maybe get your oil to one of the oil analysis labs and see if your motor is showing signs of wear problems before you spend a lot? If everything is showing relatively normal than you get some peace of mind for a few bucks.
Maybe get your oil to one of the oil analysis labs and see if your motor is showing signs of wear problems before you spend a lot? If everything is showing relatively normal than you get some peace of mind for a few bucks.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,526
Likes: 601
From: Raleigh NC
I have a 2004 Road King with 124,800 miles on it......all by me. I feel like the engine may be getting weaker, and time for rebuild. Its not burning an ounce of oil between oil changes, and I will do a compression check to see how it is sealing. But, if the time has come, my question is whether or not I should touch the bottom end. I have used Screamin Eagle Synthetic in the engine, and HD recommended oil in primary and trans since after original break in, every 5000-6000 miles. My plan for top end is upgrade to 95 or 96 inch, from my current 88, using either SE or S&S parts. But as for the bottom end, my research shows that there are several vendors who do a decent job at the bottom end work including welding the crank to prevent shift, etc, and looking for recommendations. I could go another summer, and might, but eventually I want to do it before any catastrophic occurs. Thanks in advance.
but.... the engine will be "within tolerances".... where as you can (and IMO should) split the crankcase, and build your engine, from the ground up.
using top quality parts, and the difference between a rebuilt factory engine, and a balanced and blueprinted engine, isn't that great...
As long as you don't get into a "while I'm at it, I'll go ahead and do this too" phase.... which I got caught in.... but, now, I have a brand new 2005 FLTRi, for less money, than a downpayment, on a new bike
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,077
Likes: 11,099
From: San Diego, CA
If/When you finally decide it is time to do the rebuild..... IMHO.....
If you are going to do the work yourself;
I would send the bottom out to DarkHorse CrankWorks and you will have a bullet-proof bottom end...
http://www.darkhorsecrankworks.com
Then do the top half of your choice (SE 95" or S&S 98") and with a good dyno tune, you'll be good for at least another 100,000 miles...
If you want a shop to do it;
Pick a good shop like Hillside that has been recommended here. Tell them what you want, and let them put together a package that will get you where you want to go..... Here is where a good shop, you can trust, is important.... a good shop won't push you into buying something you don't want, but may make a suggestion, that in their experience is critical to achieve your goals...
Enjoy
Last edited by hattitude; Nov 27, 2019 at 10:22 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 199
Likes: 155
From: Western Pennsylvania
This
If/When you finally decide it is time to do the rebuild..... IMHO.....
If you are going to do the work yourself;
I would send the bottom out to DarkHorse CrankWorks and you will have a bullet-proof bottom end...
http://www.darkhorsecrankworks.com
Then do the top half of your choice (SE 95" or S&S 98") and with a good dyno tune, you'll be good for at least another 100,000 miles...
If you want a shop to do it;
Pick a good shop like Hillside that has been recommended here. Tell them what you want, and let them put together a package that will get you where you want to go..... Here is where a good shop, you can trust, is important.... a good shop won't push you into buying something you don't want, but may make a suggestion, that in their experience is critical to achieve your goals...
Enjoy
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 15,620
Likes: 27,704
From: SoCal
Yeah, I am not dropping the bike off at a shop and having them rebuild the engine. Too much labor that I can do myself. I will remove the engine from the bike, ship the lower end to someone, like Dark Horse, because no way I am dealing with that. Once I get it back, put it back in the bike, and the rest is just installing the cylinders, i.e. bored and honed cylinders with new pistons, possibly ship out the heads for valve job, ....in the end, it has to cost way less than any "long block" or new S&S. Its the beauty of being a mechanic for 40 plus years. Not everyone can nor should try it......but you have to know your limitations, and I have limitations. Sometimes its not worth spending money even on the special tools it takes. I have tools I used once for my Shovelhead, and my Corvette, that I will never use again.....so ???? Anyways, I am just trying to learn what is going on with these Twin Cam cranks that I need to deal with.
As a mechanic for 40 years, I would think you would already knew the answer to your question but, if not, you've received as lot of good information here.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 199
Likes: 155
From: Western Pennsylvania
Question
On my '02, I still had the good crank and, at your mileage, doing the top without the bottom was asking for trouble. Twin Cam cranks aren't anything special. 120K is still 120K.
As a mechanic for 40 years, I would think you would already knew the answer to your question but, if not, you've received as lot of good information here.
Good luck with your rebuild.
As a mechanic for 40 years, I would think you would already knew the answer to your question but, if not, you've received as lot of good information here.
Good luck with your rebuild.